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I see, that makes sense. Thank you for the advice!

Apologies I should have mentioned that I have gone through the NoMorePly instructions already and have also contacted them and they OK'd using expanding foam with 8 mechanical fixings. Story of my life :D, any way I could simplify things? I was worried about that too, that the wall might be...

I have taken my bathroom back to brick and have purchased the NoMorePly 12mm fibre cement boards to install. On some walls, the bricks are laid with the stretcher face showing, allowing a maximum fixing depth of 115 mm, while on another internal wall, the frog face is showing, allowing a maximum...

I measured the resistance between the CU's earth bar and the cable's CPC in the accessory, using a calibrated multimeter. For example, on the sockets, the resistance between the CU earth bar and a socket's earth point was about 0.05 ohms (dead short), but on the lighting circuit, the resistance...

It's a 1930's property, but the wiring itself is a mix. Most of it post-2006, some pre-2006. I have checked CPC continuity for all circuits between the CPC in the CU and the CPC at the accessories. The lights circuit is the only one where there was no continuity in the accessories with a CPC. I...

Hi again, everyone, I am now looking into wiring the lights, a couple of shaver sockets and an extractor fan for my bathroom. My plan is to use the 6A light circuit for this, but there are a couple of complications. 1. The light circuit CPC is not continuous. There is definitely a CPC coming...

I can't figure out what's happening with the image; my suspicion is that the resolution is too high (even though the file size is small), so it's being automatically compressed by the forum when uploaded. I have uploaded a PDF version that appears to be unaffected and is clear. In short, 2.5mm...

Yeah, I noticed that. It's very weird, locally opening the image has a nice high resolution, but the moment I add it to the forum, it is very low. I'll see if I can fix it.

Hi everyone, I am planning to wire a Japanese toilet and a dual-fuel radiator in my bathroom. My plan is to tap into the bedroom radial circuit to supply 2 switched FCUs: one for the Japanese toilet and one for the dual-fuel radiator. Both FCUs are in the bathroom but outside the zones. There...

Thanks, I'll keep it in mind. Maybe I'll do a test to see how well it holds up, since on this wall, only the bottom half will have tiles; the top half will be painted. On another note, looking at Marmox's instructions for plastering (for the top half of the wall I want painted), it looks like...

Thank you for your replies and yes it definitely makes more sense to keep the plug and just fit a 3A fuse in it. I especially like the fact I can hook the boiler to a battery backup this way. I did a bit more research on why the gas engineer would want an FCU, and I found out that it's...

Thank you both, Marmox looks exactly like what I was looking for. For fixing, I was planning to use the same technique as for the rest of the bathroom boards: SBR first, then adhesive expanding foam (most likely Soudal plasterboard adhesive foam), and the mechanical fixings they recommend. I...

The gas engineer that came around told me that when they will replace the boiler (it's a very old one and it was getting serviced) they would fit a 3A FCU so I figured I might as well do it now to have it ready for the future. Also I need both gangs of the new socket free for other appliances.

Hi all, We have stripped our bathroom walls back to brick and are lining them with NoMorePly fibre cement boards. The reason we went for cement boards was for the moisture resistance and for supporting the large-format tiles we’re planning (90 x 90 cm). The tricky part is the exterior wall...

I am looking to wire my combi boiler with a Drayton Wiser thermostat. As part of this, I am also looking to make the following improvements to the current wiring: Replace the boiler's twin and earth with 3-core flex, as twin and earth is not compliant for high vibration and heat areas Replace...

Yeah, that can create quite a bit of noise. I find using ThermaWrap works quite well for both insulating and cushioning the pipe against walls/concrete/other pipes. There are some other pieces of original timber touching the ground (cement ground) where moisture has wicked up, like you said...

I am rerouting some 15mm cold water copper pipes under my suspended timber floor. As I am running insulation between the joists, I have found the best way to route these would be through ventilation openings in sleeper walls. I am planning to lag the pipes and support them with talon clips...

Ok will use a hacksaw for this. Would that be done the same way as a copper pipe? Deburring cone inside and outside and emery cloth for the outside to make it shiny?

Right makes sense. For now I'll definitely get all the plaster off and I'll see what I'm dealing with on the rest of it. That looks good. I have to say though the state of your bricks and pointing looks much better than mine though :mrgreen:

Makes sense. I have started laying 32mm MDPE for eventually replacing all the lead pipes in the house, for now though I just wanted to get rid of this weird branching as it's in the way. I thought of using lead-loc but it's my first time working with lead, so I figured the Philmac one looked...