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Thanks, sorry its the actual plug part I need as pictured as suspect that is the problem/a quick and easy thing to test as a starting point

Thanks for this, i will get up the loft and see if i can uncover them under the insulation. How many junction boxes does that equate to there? Assume even if I did locate it and do this, i would need to feed extra wire/s to the socket and it cant be done with the existing wires entering the socket?

Trying to find a replacement one of these but cant find anything anywhere. Has it got a specific name? Its for plugged in kickboard strip led's in the kitchen. The driver has the 2 pin end that connects to this

So how does it work? That light will need to be permanently powered to keep the bulb active. How do I do that without keeping the other light on all the time?

Yeah great idea, thanks ill have a look

Yes sorry, the spotlight by the door is also controlled by another switch by the door so that will be the circuit for that light. Its the other I want separating. Is it likely that they are connected via junction box up in the loft or something?

Just moved into a house where the bedroom has 3 lights, a main light, a spotlight by the door and then another light inside a dressing room. The spotlight is 2 way with another switch by the door controlling it. The main light and dressing room both come on when using one of the switches but...

Hi, can anyone point me in the right direction for a replacement one of these lock assemblies please? Its a locking bar mechanism on an up and over. No markings on it and the sticker on the garage door is unreadable so no idea where to start. Thanks

Ok thanks. Guess ill spend a bit of time tomorrow testing a few other plug in appliances and see if anything jumps out

Managed to get my hands on this today. He has this one https://amzn.eu/d/aFeNWvs Not had much chance yet, but checked a few appliances. Plugged the lead into the E and L sockets and clipped to Earth and Neutral pins. Pressed the button and bar a very brief random number showing it then sticks...

Thanks, just had a look at them and pretty sure my father in law has one of them so will have a word with him. I actually think ive narrowed it down the washing machine anyway. I used the dishwasher this morning and kept the washing machine off. As I was passing, I turned the hob on again and...

Think I may have found a potential culprit or two here. So I turned a few bits off the other night and I also turned off the integrated washing machine and dishwasher which I was meant to turn back on but forgot! (Socket is inside a cupboard so a pain to turn on/off every time) Anyway, the hob...

Ok thanks for your help. Hopefully unplugging things will do the trick anyway. I unplugged what I could last night and turned harder to reach things off at the socket (does it make a difference?) and its turned on fine since so we'll see as i say, its always been hit or miss. Since unplugging...

Just out of interest, are RCBO's a straight swap for the ones I currently have in the existing CU?For example if I was to just swap out the Cooker circuit for an RCBO or one of the other circuits or are they a different physical size?

Thank you, appreciate that!

Yes...?

A lad at work has got an earth leakage clamp that I can borrow, would that be a good start? Not sure how to use it on my board though, I understand you need to clamp around live and neutral, but each of the circuits in my CU only has live connected at the top, not neutral aswell?

Yeah ok thanks. Was just my wording on the previous response sorry, I mean the wire from the cooker switch powering the sockets in the cupboard where oven and hob are currently plugged in

No, the oven has a 13amp plug, plugged into the socket thats powered by the 45 amp cooker switch. The oven has been in before we moved in though so done by the previous owner, although never had an issue with it. Assume hardwiring the oven instead wouldn't make a difference either?

Just to add to this, if it carries on, im tempted to just get one thats hardwired and not plugged. Given that the cooker has its own circuit, is it possible to use the cable thats currently powering the sockets to power a 'proper' induction hob and a single switch via a junction box or similar?