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The lintel is 3" x 3" so I'd better keep the frame header too. Would you all recommend concreting below/around the brickwork at the ends of the lintel for strength?

Was the lintel (A) installed with the frame (B) doing an integrated part of the supporting job (because A rests on B not on brick)? If so, shouldn’t I replace or keep B rather than remove it? When you say ‘brick up’ what do you mean specifically? Many thanks sir!

Good post mate. Maybe 2 props, one third and two thirds the way across the span, cut the vertical wood away and put in new vertical beams attached to the current window top cross member. Many thanks for your help!

I like this idea!! then I'll fit a wooden frame vertically and across top and bottom and fit the upvc frame inside that. What do you think? No need to hire acrows either?

Good Job Tony BTW!!

Thanks for replying Chaps!!! A few questions >>Subject to the timber lintel being sound I would be inclined to leave it >>insitu When you mention the timber lintel, are you referring to A or B or Both (I’ve labelled them below) >>Prop it whilst you cut out the old window frame...

Plaster off and some cladding removed: The top beam doesn't extend past the end of the bottom beam and the bottom beam is the top bar of the current french doors. Thoughts re fitting UPVC french doors?

I shall have a dig about and get back with pictures!

Do you mean if I drilled the hole lower I'd hit wood, or drilled the hole deeper?

Thanks for your reply mate!! Wouldn't I have had wood shaving come out of the exploratory hole though?

Hi, I've a house built in approx 1915, with arched soldier bricks above the current wood frame french doors. I don't know if I have a cavity. I'm looking at replacing the doors with upvc. I've drilled a pilot hole inside above the wooden frame and got only red brick dust. You can...