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Still waiting for that non moronic reply. They do say that sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. You don't need the manual. You only need to know the KW rating of the boiler. (y)

There is obviously a calculation involved but you already know that because you are the gas wizard. A 1 degree discrepancy seems OK to me on a 7/8 year old boiler. I was hoping to make a comparison with what other people had observed. Hopefully some more intelligent people will be along soon...

The boiler is working a treat! :mrgreen:

I'm not a GSR. I wanted to check the boiler was performing correctly after some recent problems. This method only involves turning on the hot tap and not messing with the boiler. How else would you suggest I check it?

It took 5 minutes and the results tell me that both my heat exchangers must be fairly clear and working as they should. How else would you check the performance of the heat exchangers?

It's a good question. It's a good way to tell you if the boiler is working at it's best. It appears mine seems to be OK. I presume from the hostile reply that you don't know how to work it out. :mrgreen:

Has anybody compared the theoretical hot water temps to what you actually get in the real world? I've just done the comparison on my Ecotec plus 824. I'm getting a 42 degree rise at 8 litres per minute when the theory says it should be achieving 43 degree rise so it's pretty close.

I tested it and my Grohe does not mix any cold water in when set to max temperature. I get 48 degrees from the bath tap maxed out and 48 degrees from the shower set to max temperature. Turning the cold water off to the shower makes no difference to the shower water temperature.

My shower was £200. A quick Google search and I found a cartridge for £56.58. Mine was replaced under warranty though. Grohe give a no questions asked 5 year warranty. I just emailed them saying it was faulty with a copy of the receipt and they sent me a new one in the post. It wasn't...

Mine is coming up to 5 years old and the only problem I've had with mine is the gauze filter on the inlet got blocked once but that's not the showers fault. I'm not sure what these cyclic temperature fluctuations are that you're refering to. I've never experienced these myself. The idea of...

My thermostatic shower has been absolutely fine. Why stay away from them?

The shower temp is fine now the diverter valve has been replaced. I just can't get my head round why the faulty diverter valve was only effecting the bath/shower.

It wasn't just doing it on the shower though. It was doing on the hot tap on the bath as well. All the hot taps and shower indicate 8 litres per minute when at full flow. The CH was also coming on with the DHW but only when the bath/shower was using DHW. My thermostatic shower appears to...

The amount of hours I've spent sorting it out means it very safe :mrgreen:

I never proclaimed to be God's gift to engineering. I was pointing out I'm not an idiot like you automatically seem to assume everybody is with your condescending attitude. The thing is I wasn't asking for basic help. I was asking technical questions which nobody actually managed to answer...

You're probably one of the worst people for it Dan. If somebody disagrees with you you throw your toys out of the pram.

It's not even people asking about sealed appliances in the threads I've read though. I'm just amazed at some people's attitude on here. Don't worry I'll just use Google in future.

I completely understand the safety aspect of it but you've got to admit certain members of this forum go completely over the top with their 'advice' I might just hunt down a decent local guy then.

Also it's worth noting the original question wasn't actually answered until I compared the 2 valves when I changed them (y)

It's all the black is white and white is black arguing that makes it go on and on. It's unbelievable! I've been looking back through quite a few threads and people come on here to ask genuine questions, get a stupid cocky reply then don't reply or visit the forum ever again.