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Well, I've certainly answered my own question (the title of this thread). Believe it or not, I've been doing this sort of thing without major hassles for over 40 years - but with this (simple!) project, everything just keeps going wrong. I've now been at it on and off all day, trying to drill...

Thanks for all the replies. Yes, the SDS jobbie is a lot more brutal, and so effective - maybe I should buy a set of small bits for it and try those. *Update: the chuck on my old faithful Black & Decker has seized now, can't get bits in or out. And it can't be much more than 35 years old :LOL...

And then the other thing will be sourcing the panels - I expect that "excludes NI" too...

I've just tried to drill some small holes (like 3mm) for the screws and rawlplugs for the camera to go in, without success. It's like the bricks are made of cast iron, and the drill won't touch them. I've tried 3 different bits - and it's a 700W mains hammer drill, not some poxy cordless thing...

Thanks... but the more people posted, the more complicated it seemed! Things about routers etc, and: I don't even understand what some of that means :notworthy: I kind of think somebody with experience will understand exactly what to do, but to me it's all ελληνικά (Greek)...

Well... decided it might be better to let the professionals have a go at it, so I called Cloudy to Clear - but, as with everything else, the bottom line is "Excludes NI". Will see if there's a local man...

My house has 30-year-old mahogany-framed double glazing. I've had quite a bit of it replaced with modern UPVC stuff, but the bathroom is a problem. Whereas a lot of the other frames were starting to rot in places, so had to go, the bathroom is on the sheltered side of the house, and the frame...

1500 I believe

Ha ha, thanks :ROFLMAO: I needed that. Funny though, I don't think I've ever drilled anything like a 1" hole in brick - or used a big SDS drill to drill anything. What you say about not doing it all in one go seems kind of obvious now :notworthy: When I've stopped bleeding, I'll get as far as...

Errmmm... :notworthy:

I did! Tightened it up before starting. I was just taken aback with the force of the recoil I think...

That's the very machine that hit me :LOL: Agree with everything you say :notworthy: Consolation is that I can't remember the last time I hurt myself, in decades of DIY, so I mustn't be completely thick. Sadly getting on a bit now though, so maybe my judgement is no longer up to scratch...

Well, I DID read the manual before using, honest. But I must have missed this bit :mad: Anyway, looks like it does have a clutch - I just wasn't expecting the enormous force...

I need to drill a hole through the outside wall of the garage, about 1" diameter. Some years ago, I bought a cheap (but quite big and brutal) SDS drill from SF. I didn't need the drill, but it also had a chisel action, which I used to dig out the concrete base of a rotary clothes line I wanted...

You've persuaded me :eek: :eek: :eek:

Advice about the chainsaw understood. But my friend did actually bring his bow saw up a few weeks ago, and I had a quick go. (a) with the angle I had to approach it from, I couldn't apply much force; (b) as I mentioned above, the trunk wobbles back and forward. The combination of these two...

Well, I intended to start at the top, and cut off maybe 1' lengths till I got to the bottom? No? I don't really know any more than that - which is why I've asked here!

Hhmmm... no experience of them, but I think you have a point.... will investigate (y) Oh, if I pulled the staples out, it would come crashing down. Trouble is, the operative word is "crashing" - it's a lot bigger than it looks. When I said 8" thick earlier, it is actually TWO 8" trunks, which...

Yeah... I don't think that would work... as the trunk is no longer attached at the bottom, it flops around if you try and manipulate it, so would just wave back and forward with the saw sticking in it, if I tried that, I think...