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I'm assuming that there is a wire going to the existing pump or pump control to tell the pump to run? That wire needs to go in 1 and out of 2 if my earlier assumptions are correct, so that signal is held on to give you a pump run on time. If that wire is going directly to the pump, meaning it...

Photos are good. Off delay timers usually need a permanent live. At a guess, you need permanent live and neutral on L and N, signal from boiler to run pump on 1, and signal to whatever runs the pump from 2.

Went off in a huff best part of a year ago.

Looks like the rod coming out of the unit is threaded, so maybe a motor driven screwjack (powerjack) for adjusting table height? Dont know if that adjustment is a thing on sewing machines? That cable up the centre of the photo is damaged.

Wrong. VSD outputs are not pure sine wave outputs. They use pulse width modulation, with outputs firing in the kHz range. Which is why you get very high voltage rates of change and consequently high stresses across insulation. I'm guessing you don't do much drives work.

I would be very reluctant to connect a motor inverter directly to that motor, it's old and very unlikely it's insulation is suitable for inverter operation, and it will fail. Similarly I would be equally very reluctant to connect a motor inverter to the controller. I doubt those old electronics...

That's some link you've posted Sunray!

It really isn't a case of closing your eyes and stick in a pin. What mechanical power do I need, over what range of speed. How tight do I need my speed/torque/position control to be. What signals are controlling the drive. It's called engineering.

A An inverter for direct connection to a motor does not produce a pure sine wave output, so whatever is controlling the motor speed and torque currently would need to cope with that. If you are thinking about directly controlling this existing motor with a new inverter, make sure the...

Why the RCD, not needed if your outdoor light circuit is already RCD protected. How will the cable be run? Get ready for somebody to lecture you about sockets on lighting circuits.

https://sunnyelectricals.com/fused-spur-switch-with-countdown-timer-t206-c?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2vjuBRCqARIsAJL5a-L7_iUOBCby_Qt1pWRbOGUziycHW_C6F3IN-Vz7sbiZA0rlzp03siQaAgjKEALw_wcB https://www.screwfix.com/p/greenbrook-t205-scr-kingshield-7-day-fused-digital-timer-spur-switch-230v/7643g

Sounds even less expensive now, lifting and replacing loft boards, cabling on an unknown route. Getting your money's worth there for 400 quid. All a bit moot of course, if your electrician has vanished.

Doesn't sound particularly expensive to me. Supply all materials, install and test, business overheads etc.

Got to agree with Bernard here, I always get control panels manufactured with a block of consecutive terminals per cable. Having said that they would also have a trunking for the incoming cable to arrive into between glanding and terminal rail, so any spaghetti is hidden.

Genuine question, what's the gain in chasing cables into the insulation and using separate insulation and plasterboard? Is it for airtightness?

Insulated plaster board comes with a vapour barrier between insulation and plasterboard, on the warm side of the insulation.

It's better to have the cable against the brickwork, rather than chased into the insulation.

Dot and dab insulated plasterboard directly to the brickwork, the cables sit against the brickwork in the right void between insulation and wall.

So why did you post incorrect statements about MCB operation?

Or change the fused spur front plate for a socket.