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French Polisher by trade here, just came across this and thought it might be useful for all if I cleared up a few things. Shellac mixed with meths is the solution used when ‘French Polishing’ using a rubber. The meths in shellac, which is a basic form alcohol and it will brush up any stain that...

No No, this will be fine, couple of things I would add though. Mask up around the hole before you start to fill, then remove the tape before it hardens this will limit the amount of sanding you need to do. Make sure you push it in really well, I tend to push it into the hole then dig it back...

Thank you Oops, I am happy giving any advise I can, the main problem is, and this thread is a perfect example, it’s very difficult to explain in words how to touch out a scratch, as I said in my original post so many different factors come into play. The other difficulty is even if could easily...

Moisture resistant MDF would be fine for a bathroom cabinet, it’s all about the sealing of it. It will take as many coats as it takes, don’t assume 2 primer and 2 topcoats will automatically do the job as it all depends on the quality of both the MDF and the paint. I would be more concerned...

The connectors do have a toothed ring in order to precent slipping off, however these won’t damage the pipe to that extent. You should be ok replacing like for like or use any other fitting. If you are concerned about the fittings been 15 years (and rightly so) I don’t understand why you’re not...

Again this only works on bare wood as it relies on the sawdust from sanding the wood to stick and colour the glue.

You will most likely just end up with milky mark if you try this on a polished surface, The hot steam trick is used to get dents and scratches out of timber, as in bare wood, not wood that has a finish on.

You can only make this look better, it will never disappear completly, try these products for starters www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Mohawk+Finishing+Products&i=diy&search-type=ss&ref=bl_dp_s_web_0

As a French Polisher I can tell you touching out is an art form that after 30 years in the trade I am still perfecting. The success of touching something up depends on so many things, the type of wood, type of finish, the depth of the damage, grain structure, even where it is in relation to the...

I think it would look ridiculous with only some gaps filled. I think it will also look ridiculous due to some boards been cut for the rads. The are ways you could fill all the gaps using resin and sawdust from your sanding, and it would look better as well as preventing draughts, however it is...

Not sure why you would want to do this, theoretically is possible (if they are absolutely identical) but in practise getting it all lined up and slotted on….it’s probably a lot me trouble than it’s worth.

Personally I would just leave the bayonet unconnected provided your getting the pipe removed at some point.

They are a nightmare to do. I had a similar floor and was told by Lithofin to use this certain product to ‘strip’ the floor, then another product to ‘seal’ the floor. Even with a hired scrubber the cleaning job was just nasty, and a couple of hundred pounds and hours of sweet later the end...

My advice would be contact the manufactures of the render, I’m sure you could but they are the ones that know for sure, they will have most likely done testing and might recommend some sort of bonding agent before the render.

A photo would be useful

Just a weed barrier should do the trick

For any oil to work you need to take it back to bare wood, you also need to take it back to new (unbleached) wood, this can be difficult without going through the veneer, even then you might need to apply a stain to match the colour.

If your happy to remove plasterboard behind the TV and let in a piece of ply, then there is nothing stopping you from putting in extra noggings between the studs, this will give you more than 12mm of thickness to screw into which I think you need. Like you say once painted it wont be seen.

The reason the knots are seeping through is the original paint is water based, as is the sap. We never used to have this problem back in the day when we were all happy using oil based paints. You should be able to get away with using a blocker direly over the paint as long as it isn’t flaking or...

https://www.sealantsupplies.co.uk/products/bond-it-mega-stik-pu-adhesive-foam-750ml/