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Just curious as to why your chemically stripping car wheels rather than just giving then a good sand up with 120 wet and dry, any chips can be feathered out then a couple of coats of good quality primer another flat down and your good to top coat.

https://creativepaints.co.uk/ https://www.symphonycoatings.co.uk/ Try these two companies, both deal in specialist paints for the wood / metal industry. Although to be honest I think it's a powder coating in which case you will not be able to recreate it without a lot of specialist equipment.

One thing that springs to mind is to dig around the current postcrete and add more? This is what I would do as the ground around the concrete is obviously too soft to support the post and concrete, the only other thing I can think of if the ground is really soft is digging down 18 inch or so...

Bin red is a shellac-based primer which is why it’s superb for drying on greasy substrates. Always use meths for cleaning brushes. Personaly I only use it for the above reason, I will then use an obliterating primer such as Johnstone joncryl primer undercoat.

I find it interesting that you say Bin is horrrible to use and everything goes in the bin afterwards, why is that?

Yes, the more sanding the flatter the end result. I would start around 60 grit work through to at least 180 if 240 grit.

Sadolin have a range of products which might suit

Yes I meant take the floorboards up, lay the cement boards then just a thin layer of screed to level up.

Black silcone for the ends

Wash down with sugar soap, sand as much as you want to (the more you sand the better the end result) then go to your local independent decorators merchant and ask their advice regarding the best quality obliterating primer and topcoat.

Teak oil, or any oil just does not last unles you recaot every 3 months

I would speak to rapierstar on (0)1260 223311 . I used them all the time back in the day, they used to sell a Torx drive screw that would just drive through anything with zero slipage. They also have some treated screws that may be worth thinking about.

I know you said you want to keep the floor height the same to run through with the hallway, but could you afford (in terms of height) to put the cement board down then lay a thin self-leveling screed just to finish it off.

I think timber would take up too much depth, your C channel is the best idea for rigidity as for protruding onto the face you could just get C channel the same thickness as your door and rebate it so the channel sits flush. Alternatively, a T channel might work if you router out the back of the...

The first thing I would do is go back to the company that told you it was in tolerance and ask to prove it. It’s all well and good someone saying its ‘in tolerance’ but by who’s yardstick? Was it just their opinion or did they use a set of guidelines laid out by a governing body? Or a fancy...

That’s a big ask of any door. 18mm MDF in theory should do it, but it might warp. The problem with timber and to an extent MDF is sometimes it warps sometimes it doesn’t as there is not always a logical explanation as to why. If you can use 22mm thick MDF (with the track you have) this will...

I would just use 2x6 C16 timbers for both the ledger board and the joists. You would get away will 4x2’s over an 8 foot gap (16 inch on centers) but if it was my project I would go 2x6 for the sake of the small price difference, I like to go overboard on strength. To fix the ledger back to brick...

FYI, If it's a 1920 table Shelac will definatly be right for the era.

In terms of shaving most of the hardwood lipping off the hinge side, I wouldn’t be too concerned. I’ve had to do this in the past and I simply strengthen the area of the hinge screw by glueing a piece of 10mm oak dowel into the core for each hinge screw.

The osmo and polyurethane are incompatible and can’t be used one on top of the other. Because the hard was oil is made of oils and not resins it is entirely possible the wax oil could be preventing the Polyurethane from curing properly, hence why it’s marking easily. You need to chemically strip...