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Oh Yeah. Obviously you need to put water back in the boiler/system :D Just assumed you'd done that ;)

This ^ cheap part.

Remove the pull off front cover and check the reset button(s) Its most likely the boiler fired up to recharge the heat bank without enough water in it after you vented the rad

The cold water filter you have cleaned is the one directly below the hall sensor....Which is the wrong strainer ;) The far right iso valve which is the CH return valve (22mm) is the one that houses the return strainer. This is very simple to clean, once the boiler is empty, but may need the...

I've no idea what your service chap does, but your saying that you are only getting 7 l/m so your boiler will most likely be modulating down to the required temperature set on the fascia. Thus you are not using the full capability of your boiler. You need to adjust/increase the flow rate to a...

Have you tried adjusting the flow rate at the flow switch?

Baxi combis are fitted with a filter in the return iso valve.

Before condemning the pump id be cleaning out the filter first! Grundfoss pumps are normally reliable.

If you are diy'ing you may find it easier to drain the system to the required level (lower than the pump), then buy a Grundfoss 15-50/60 pump. The castings should be the same, which means you can transfer the motor from the new pump over to the old body just by using the allen bolts. This can be...

Stamped onto the casting is a directional arrow. Whatever pump you buy, fit the pump with the arrow going in the same direction. If for whatever reason you need to rotate the motor section, then you can undo the allen bolts to remove the motor from the cast body and rotate to the desired...

It's always a good idea to get someone qualified and suitably experienced to diagnose the issue with your boiler. Don't be surprised though if it comes back as the pcb, they are tripe! Normally failure of the fan low speed relay circuit. For a heads up, it might be worth making a note of the...

Sounds about right, get a service engineer to lower the BP. Then test with the stat on max and see if the stat clicks the burner off before the limit stat kicks in. This won't fix the pump overrun, but might lessen pesky resets of the boiler.

Off the top of my head, I'd be tempted to run the pump on a set speed like the system originally was setup. Your system is getting old so I'd be looking at possibly dropping the burner pressure. You could looking at the stat being slow to register temp increase before the limit stat kicks in...

Yeah lots of effort! Its in quite a way too :)

I understand that :) But the OP seems to think he can pump the hot water out of the cylinder into a radiator, just by adding a pump on a stat. Something maybe possible by adding a pump, but controlling it to not conflict with the existing pump/circulation would be interesting. Perhaps changing...

I dont think you realise that your system will be indirect, so the hot water that is in the cylinder is the water that comes out of the taps. You cant use that hot water to pump around a radiator, and even if you tried the radiator would do its job and 'suck' the heat out of your cylinder so...

Echo that here, yes granted there are better boilers and some of their design decisions are a joke. But I've not known any other boiler company come close to them for customer support.

Yes, but that part is located within the combustion cover.

Well the end looks complete, so I would just get a new one and fit it. You could try and fix it with a replacement o-ring if you can find one the right size, but you can get a complete new kit for £33. Just google: Worcester Bosch 87161051030 Mick

That's a good illusion! Looks just like broken plastic :) so do you have a picture of the black nozzle that came out of that hole? Mick