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From the looks of it the black half circle located at the 11 o'clock position is a snapped piece of plastic from the original filling assembly, the cold inlet to the valve. WB supply a complete new filling assembly that is slightly different to the original but does fit and includes a new...

Looks like what you need from what I remember when I've done them. If its genuine.

Agreed, we've tried this in the past just on the off chance, but it isnt designed to cope with the heat and stress inside the heat exchanger, and has never worked for us. Best course is to call WB out and let them fix it. We've done this on several occasions as its the most cost effective thing...

If your confident the Nest is operating correctly and the boiler is showing no fault codes, then I would say good luck (sorry, not helpful). The fault may lie with the boilermate, and through experience, they are not a repairers favourite appliance to work on. It might just be the few I've seen...

Just checked and it looks like the 438 is the only stainless heat only model, 6.3-38kw output @80C Just seen your link above, that boiler is a system boiler, not heat only. But Viessmann do use stainless heat exchangers. Me personally, I think that some of their design decisions are...

I always used to recommend Vaillant heat only boilers as they had wonderful stainless heat exchangers with copper flow/return pipes straight out of the boiler, no messing. But I believe only the largest one in the range still has a stainless heat exchanger (38kw, I think?) you would need to...

Wise choice, Ive replaced about a dozen or more of those heat exchangers over the years. Pick something with a stainless heat exchanger, much hardier :)

When your service guy looked at the boiler did he check the combustion figures (not just gas pressure) and were they in spec? Normally a faulty burner or gas valve would show up on an analyser. For me it sounds like heat exchanger kettling, get some cleaning chemical in there. Start with...

Baxi prvs aren't that expensive, first thing I would do is remove the 'kungfoo' copy and get the genuine one fitted. Plumb center normally keep them in stock. Also it would be a good idea to recheck the expansion vessel, do this with the boiler empty. If you know what your doing you could...

A few things to bare in mind that can cause excessive gas in the radiator system: Boiler kettling. Boiler over sized for the system. Boiler not calibrated correctly for the system. Boiler thermostat set too high. Poor plumbing arrangement, not naturally venting. Auto air vents if fitted not...

So the fault has changed from intermittent heating to constant heating? This would indicate incorrect wiring of the rf receiver or incorrect installation of the pcb. How you proceed is up to you. Add it is work on a gas appliance you could call gas safe and take their advice, which could...

Immersion heaters work on 240ac across live (red/brown) and neutral(blue/black) this would need to be measured at the start of the operation which is your clock, and its ability to send that power to the heater. Once that is confirmed to be correct you can move to the heater itself. 240ac would...

Off the top of my head, sime, baxi ga to name two. Causes us a few call outs when customers over pressure their boilers and the boiler stops altogether!

One disadvantage of running at a higher pressure is you are then relying on the system water quantity being accurately calculated and dealt with by the expansion vessel at maximum temperature. Quite a few modern boilers with pressure sensors not only trip out on low pressure but also HIGH pressure!

Sounds like a danfoss receiver that was faulty, which is common. Swapping the pcb may have brought in a new issue where it may not have been correctly installed and still has the link in place to run the heating. Just a thought.

Have you used a multimeter to check correct power from the timer to the heater through the stat and safety device to the element?

Depends on the boiler. If you have a boiler that uses a pressure switch then running low pressure will give you limited head room, more frequent/little top ups. If the boiler has a flow switch then you can run at a low or zero pressure as they work on flow/circulation not pressure. And having...

Then I would recommend fitting a magnaclean pro2 to the return pipe under your boiler, adding cleaning chemical perhaps x400 or x800 depending on your needs/time and then cleaning the filter as the chemical breaks the sludge down. The filter will remain and keep the boiler clean as best it can.

Grab it with needle nose pliers and pull :) But echoing everyone else's advice, all this and the struggle your having getting the strainer out really does indicate a poor sludged up unhealthy system. I'd be looking at ds40 and power flushing.

Big round brass assembly on the left of the boiler with two 10mm pipes in the top. Held in place by two small grub screws behind. And that gauze strainer in the return ISO valve just slides out for cleaning.