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10mm foam expansion strip finished with a polysulfide sealant. You can get the foam strips from builders merchants, but if you buy a 100mm wide strip I’d trim 10/15mm off so that it finishes below the face of the block and gives you some room for sealant without it standing proud of the wall.

If you're keeping some masonry above the new lintel then this will need to be propped while you make the new opening. A couple of strongboys from the side of the wall with the concrete slab will be fine.

If you have a ridge beam then the ties become redundant in preventing the roof from spreading and you can put your ceiling joists in at whatever level you want to

Where did the roof drain to before you built the extension? Soakaways generally do not work well in clay

I’d go for a closer bolt spacing than 2m - M10 bolts at 900mm centres or there abouts. You’ll want something like a Simpson strong tie JHA hanger if you’re after a long one to give you some offset for your joists

Bolt a 100mm deep timber to the web of the beam and then nail joist hangers to the timber?

Why not ask the engineer

It looks like a decorative cast stone window head - I think you can see the bottom of a steel lintel below it above the window?

Size of the timber bearer doesn't really matter hugely, it just needs to be deep enough to give you enough fixing for your hangers. But seeing as you're using 6x2 for the rafters anyway i'd use a piece of 6x2 for the bearer as well. Fix it to the wall with M10 bolts at 600mm centres.

It depends what type of lintel you use over the bi-folds. If you use a suitable size proprietary lintel from a manufacturer then generally no as the manufacturer provides their own standard calculations for the lintels. If you use a steel beam from a steel stockholder then yes you'd be expected...

Yes drill the web of the beam and bolt timber packs to both sides of the beam, then support the joists on hangers

Yes its common practice to use a beam with a plate welded to the underside as a lintel, mainly on larger spans where deflection is critical and the length required is bigger than the standard lintel sizes available. You should be fine with the heavy duty keystone lintel, the load on the lintel...

Yes its common to pour a concrete floor in sections with day joints. There's only so much concrete you can pour in one go...

Well first of all if the SE who designed the flitch beam hasn't specified the bolt size/spacing clearly enough for it to be built then he's not done a decent enough job... But sounds like complete overkill to be using a flitch beam with 3 timbers and 2 steel plates for a span that size, not to...

Depends on the height to the top of the doors and how much masonry you end up keeping above the lintel, but i'd go for an off the shelf steel lintel - something like a Catnic CCS. You could use a concrete lintel but at a 2.4m span it'll weigh an absolute tonne and be a pain to install as a DIY...

Also covered well in SCI P360 - specifically has a section covering pairs of beams supporting cavity walls and the requirements to achieve load transfer between beams.

If two beams were designed to work as one they would need more than just a few bolts and spacers. Simply bolting the webs of two beams together at 1.5m centres isn’t a sufficient way to share the load between beams.

Thanks for sharing, interesting comments and concept - but in reality would you specify a beam and effectively ignore the dead load deflection in your design based on the presumption that the builder can properly preload the beam? Would you expect the average builder to be familiar with the...

Yes agreed. My point was that just because the tedds output has been set up to check span/360 against imposed loads only, doesn’t necessarily mean that the design is wrong and the total deflection isn’t within an acceptable limit.