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Glad you were able to fix your problem. Not sure I like being referred to as a "comrade" though...

If she'd paid by credit card she could easily use the chargeback process. However, BACs directly moves funds from her bank account into the dodgy plumber's account, so there's no easy way, short of the small claims court, of getting back her money

Well, I've fitted several heating coils into HW cylinders this way so I'm certainly not wrong. I don't intend to reply to any more of your rather rude comments.

Yes, very annoying - but it's rather too common these days for tradesmen to do the quickest job they can get away with and not think through the consequences of what they are doing. But the angle to which you can lift the EP2 does look sufficient to unhook it from the top. Maybe apply a little...

If the thermostat is not in not contact with the wall of the cylinder, it will be calling for heat even when the water in the cylinder is at the desired temperature, because the thermostat will not "see" that temperature.

I have changed the fused connection unit supplying my oil boiler to a double pole switched socket and ordinary 13 amp plug. When I suffered a 3 day power outage after the January storm it was simple matter to unplug the boiler feed plug from the socket and plug it into my generator - which I had...

I'm afraid there's a lot of nonsense hear but I really can't be bothered to go through this lengthy post and comment on it all.

Operating the system for any length of time with CH circuit water continually escaping into your HW system will mean that the CH heating circuit is continually being topped up with fresh, oxygenated water via the CH header tank. This will not only dilute any inhibitor in the CH system but also...

I can assure you that copper WILL dissolve in both nitric and sulphuric acids. I accept that it won't dissolve in hydrochloric acid but iron and steel will and since CH systems have both metals in them, I wouldn't put any of the 3 acids into a CH system. And yes, acetic acid does react with...

Well, if there are no leaks from the radiator and nothing has been spilled on it, and the smell only occurs when the radiator is hot, it must be the paint or coating on the radiator that is smelling. It can't be anything else. Is the radiator new or have you recently painted it?

If it's waterproof now, patching from the inside will certainly not protect anything from the weather. You cannot make a flat roof more waterproof by adding stuff to its underside. The only way to improve it would be to put some sort of coating on the outside of the roof. I would also be wary of...

I've used Bostik Flexacryl on a deteriorating felt roof with some success, although I re-inforced some cracks in the felt with scrim embedded in the Flexacryl. You can get Flexacryl in a lightish grey colour which, unlike black, doesn't get so hot in the sun, prolonging its life

I concur that, if your current oil boiler is heating the CH water OK it's highly unlikley that replacing it with ANY new boiler will somehow free up the water circuit. Are the radiators than won't go on fed by the microbore pipes?

If the inhibitor is not up to strength, you "air" might in fact be hydrogen or methane caused by internal corrosion

Ah.. vinegar is acetic acid which is mild and, as you say, won't harm copper and brass. But acetic acid won't have any significant effect on magnetite either. Stronger acids such as nitric, hydrochloric and sulphuric will quickly dissolve magnetite but will do the same to copper and brass.

There's nothing to stop you extending the flue so it's the required distance from the back door.

Don't use acid! It'll quite rapidly dissolve all copper and brass fittings in the system

I'm not sure what the problem is. As long as your new taps don't have bases that are any larger then the old ones, they'll fit with no problems. If the silicone gets disturbed, just put some new in its place.

If the "illegal" gate valve is seized shut, your CH circuit has not been able to receive any water at all from the F&E tank. If you'd had a leak, or needed to drain a radiator, there would be no way to refill the system. Of course, the system remained vented via the pipe curving over the top of...

It surely can't be sucking (tissue drawn towards it) and blowing at the same time. Can you get to the outside? You can then verify the shutters are open when it's on, and check whether you can feel it there blowing outward.