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Well I suppose it's nice but, personally, I've never had any problem with manually adjusting a thermostat! As for "smart" it's just a label to imply something is better, when often it isn't - like smart electricity meters

Making the operation of your heating dependent on a good mobile phone connection seems to me to be very unwise and is certainly not "smart"!

A rather unnecessary response if I may say so, but I'll let it pass!

Since the OP only recently turned the handle to close the stopcock it cannot be seized closed or even seriously stuck. With the handle broken, the use of an adjustable spanner or a Mole wrench to open the stopcock is such an obvious action I can't understand why the OP needed this forum to tell...

If you buy a new stockcock it'll have a handle like the old one which you can remove from the new and fit to the old. But as has been said an adjustable spanner clamped tightly onto the flats will move it as it can't be too tight, given you closed it before your tap job

Yes always use best quality isolation valves. In a new house I occupied a while back, the builder had clearly fitted to lowest quality isolation valves he could find. After a couple of years, I had reason to use one of them to isolate the cold water tap to change the cartidge. It was a bit...

You just have to experiment with different numbers of turns of Loctite 55 or PTFE tape until the valve is correctly orientated when it is fully tight. This is a bit tedious but is pretty standard practice.

What's the question? As you say, you connect the flow side of the pipework to the radiator connection marked "inlet". Or are the inlet and outlet labels on your radiator missing?

As sketched, the radiators will stop both doors opening fully, but I guess you could tolerate that, as long as you fit some sort of stops to prevent the doors crashing into the radiators.

Surely you must have a shower, even if you don't have a bath. So you'll need HW for that as well as the kitchen sink. Or do you just go unwashed?!

Has the builder finished the work? If so, he has neglected to cover the edge of the tiles. This could be done with mortar, but better would be a purpose designed edging strip - which would also cover quite a bit of the rubber/lead that you want to disguise. It also looks like there are some...

Well good luck with doing that now the walls are full height!

Yes, you can still buy new starters - even at B&Q - but they are Chinese made and I've found quite a few are duff.

They are both outside walls, but ideally you don't want water going down the gap because, with the lack of both drainage and airflow, it'll remain damp indefinitely, potentially cause damp penetration through the walls. Still, it does seem unreasonable for your neighbours to complain about the...

My CH has a setpoint of 20C for mornings and evenings, with a setback to 16C during the day. It's actually fired up for a bit in the mornings and evenings this week. I have my heating on when I need it to keep the house warm, rather than leaving it off to an arbitary date. That said, we do seem...

Comment removed as I'd misunderstood the posting about radiator needing bleeding!

Or just paint all the pipes white...

Not if you use marine ply and, as the OP said, cover it with foil

Does look good. I've never understood why people want to only drill holes for fixing stuff in the grout lines of tiles. The holes are always somewhat wider than the grout line, so you've just as much chance (if not more) of cracking the tiles when you try to drill on the grout line. Much better...

Does you boiler also provide hot water (normally via a coil in your HW storage tank through which the water from the boiler flows)? If so, turning your boiler thermostat right down will cause your HW to be lukewarm - and also incur the risk of legionairres disease bacteria build-up