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Tightening it a bit is certainly worth trying but if that doesn't work you will have to dismantle the joint. To do that you'll need to remove the 3 screws holding the tap to the wall (which given their rusty appearance may be a bit of a struggle. Why don't people use brass or stainless steel...

If the flush isn't working properly you only need to replace the flush valve. If you really want to replace the entire cistern, finding one that will fit your existing toilet bowl will be difficult and you'd be better replacing the whole toilet - bowl and cistern

This is confusing. The 2nd sentence says you get no water at all when the tap is turned all the way to the right. But then the 4th sentence says that when the tap is turned all the way to the right you get cold water. So which is it?

The thread on a compression joint does NOT form any part of the seal. It's the olive, compressed against the pipe and against the compression fitting, that seals the joint. So PTFE tape will/may only work if wrapped around the olive - it won't do anything if wrapped around the threads.

I've always found that 15mm olives fit 1/2" imperial copper tube without a problem. Perhaps your 1/2" tube is slightly over size? The only imperial copper tube that requires a specific "conversion" olive is 3/4" and, if these are used a good joint with a 22mm compression fitting can be made...

When you say you have a replacement tee, is that a Marley Equator? If so, the supplier might be able to provide a demounting tool. If it isn't a Marley Equator tee then, even if you get the old one off by brute force, you may be left with a pipe in the wall to which you cannot connect the new...

Actually it's difficult to see from the picture if there actually IS a gully beneath the plastic grid. If there is then the above advice is correct. If there isn't then presumably the waste is just discharging into the ground - or maybe some sort of crude soakaway?

You'll maybe want to take the cover off at sometime in the future to get at the cartidge if it needs replacement, so I definitely wouldn't glue it into place. If you can tighten the grub screw sufficiently to secure the cover (but then it works loose) I would use Loctite Threadlock (not glue) on...

Yes, column radiators look very trendy but rely mainly on radiation to heat the room. The conventional panel radiators with "wavy steel" behind them or between two panels mainly heat via convection, so warm air continually rises from them. This is more efficent at heating a room.

Have you located where the tank is actually leaking from? If none of the pipe connections are leaking, and it's not leaking around the fill valve connection, then there must be some sort of pinhole that's formed. But that's pretty much unheard of with a plastic tank. You only need to go to all...

You need a land area around your house that is larger than most people's houses have, to use a ground source heat pump

No, just in my own house, where I have replaced most of the radiators. Prorads are generally cheaper than Stelrads, especially if bought online, and I guess that's because they're made in Turkey, not Britain. There seems to be nothing to choose between then on quality, though of course I haven't...

I guess you'll have to hope that leaks don't occur in inaccessible parts of the heating circuit - like under floorboards etc. What do you want to achieve by getting rid of the F&E tank and going over to mains pressure in your CH circuit even if governed? I'm a great believer in "if it ain't...

If you're putting in a combi boiler I think this will mean that there's no F&E tank and instead the radiator circuit will be under mains water pressure. If so, be prepared for some leaks!

As I said in my previous post, Prorad and Stelrad radiators differ only in their top and side trim panel attachment arrangements. Stelrad arrangements are arguably more complicated and the Prorad ones simpler and neater

Prorad and Stelrad radiators are pretty much identical, except for some differences in the way the top and end trim panels attach. I haven't come across Henrad radiators but wouldn't be surprised if they are much the same. What do you want to match up?

If you can find one the right size, you might find that just replacing the O-ring will stop the leak.

I've always thought the the description "cistern" was restricted to the tank providing toilet flushing. Any other tank with a float valve in it is a "cold water storage tank" or a "feed and expansion tank". This seems to me to a be a useful distinction but, hey-ho, if the purists insist they are...

Modern 6 litre cisterns are pretty much incapable of providing the old-fashioned powerful flush provided by older 12 litre cisterns. Most people have to flush multiple times to properly clear solid matter in the pan, thus defeating the aim of mandating 6 litre cisterns, which was to save water.

If you can switch CH and HW on separately, and only one boiler, you must have a least one 3-way motorised valve, or maybe two 2-way valves. Otherwise as soon as either the HW or the CH pump is turned on, HW will be forced around BOTH the HW and CH circuits