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Your pictures don't seem to show any sort of float valve in the tank. If it's continually passing water, the easiest action is just to replace the entire valve

If it's bottom fed I think you may have trouble finding a ballcock type valve of this sort.

This inlet valve has its water feed at the bottom of the cistern. Most ball cock type valves have their water feed at the side. You need to check your ballcock valve to see which type of feed it has.

I would use a pipe freezing kit on the pipe below the valve. That will give you about 30 minutes to change the valve with no need to drain the system and no chance of soaking the floor.

Even if you could fit a syphon into a modern 6 litre cistern, I don't think they'd be enough water in the cistern to reliably start the syphon. That's why the move to small 6 litre cisterns forced the abandonment of syphons and the introduction of leaky bottom flush valves. The forced move to 6...

Yes, syphon flushes became unsuitable when the Govt mandated very small (6 litre) cisterns to "save water". So we got flush systems with bottom valves that, unlike syphons, can, and do, leak. What's more, the leak often goes undetected because it goes into the toilet pan. The small cisterns also...

May be best to replace both side by side radiators. If one has pinholed so soon then the other one may fail as well.

The toilet shown does not have a syphon flush system - it has the more modern bottom flush valve that is opened when you press the button. So don't buy a new syphon - it won't fit!

Running a washing machine when you're not in the house is even madder than altering a thermostat setting when you're not there. Washing machines can, and do, spring leaks and flood the kitchen and then the house if you're not there to turn off the water.

I've never understood why people want to control their heating themostats from a smartphone. Sure you can do it when you're away from the house, but why would you want to do that? When you're in the house, it's hardly a big trouble to walk over to wherever the thermostat is located to alter it.

I think it's a great pity that the older, leak free, siphon flush systems have now been eliminated from all new toilet installations. Siphons went out of favour when water companies succeeded in getting cistern volumes reduced significantly in a bid to save water. The reduced volume meant that...

I agree with terryplumb. The fact that if you run the HW for long enough it does get properly hot indicates that the flow around the HW tank heating circuit is slower than it ought to be, which suggests the motorised valve in this circuit is not opening fully some of the time. The Honeywell...

If you can get access to the base of the cistern where the fill valve connects to the feed pipe (it looks from your picture that you can) then no, you don't have to remove the cistern. You will have to drain it of its water, though, which means turning off the water feed, flushing the toilet...

If it's sold new then it has to be serviceable, otherwise take it back for a refund. If it's a valve already in use but with a fault, then you need to describe the fault before we can advise on repair or replacement

No wall plugs are, as the name suggests, for fixing screws into masonry walls. I don't think they'd actually work in chipboard.

If you've already drilled holes in the chipboard to accommodate the plugs then the screws won't bite into the chipboard. Your best bet now is to use butterfly cavity fasteners which spring out behind the chipboard.

Be careful when sourcing brass screws that you're not sold "brassed" ones. These are ordinary mild steel but covered with something that makes them look like brass and with a rip-off price to match!

I suspect you won't find a valve that matches your old one. As I previously said, the new valve you've got is designed to be pushed through the tank wall and secured by a nut outside, so you may have to remove you existing pipe that goes through the tank wall and substitute the new one.

I'm not clear how your existing old valve threads through the tank wall. The bit with threads on in your picture, which presumably connects to the water supply pipe, looks to be too short to go through the tank wall, be secured by a nut on the outside of the tank and then be secured to the water...

"Immersion heater not working properly switches on at wall both day and night timers green light on boiler is on.." I'm not clear why you are referring to the boiler when your question is apparently about your immersion heater. If, as is usual, the boiler heats the hot water cylinder via a...