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I had a look but could not see any filters. I disconnected the hot water inlet pipe and looked down it. I expected to see a visible mesh on there but saw no such thing. Phoned Aqualisa but they either want me to upgrade to a new system or spend about £500 to have someone come and repair. So, I...

Good observation.

I saw a "Aqualisa 910751 Button Shower Controller" on amazon for £115. It looks similar to my old one but not identical. I wonder if I bought that perhaps I could replace the old one. Maybe that is one for the customers services to tell me if it is compatible or not. To check the blocked inlet...

Yes. Very hot.

Thanks for the link. I had already read that thread. I don't have a combi-boiler and it is a power shower rather than a gravity fed system. Also, the blue light doesn't continually flash like the OP. Instead, it flashes and then the flash rate slows down until it reaches the supposedly hottest...

My Aqualisa shower, which is probably about 8 years old now, worked fine until about a year ago. Now it is just lukewarm. The is a power pump in the attic which kicks in when I start the shower. Is there anything I could try to fix this, or is it a case of replacing the unit or getting a...

Earlier today I got a stool out, a tourch and a bbq skewer. I poked it in the crack and it went a long way, which concerned me. It went in about 16cm. Made me think there is likely to be a crack in the brickwork matching the crack in the pebbledash. But the picture is a bit confusing, because...

I can provide a link to a website that explains this for you, but I am not sure if we are allowed to drop links on this forum. Read my previous post for how this gap can expand. I'm not sure you are interested in seeing any evidence of this because you are already saying it is not possible...

It is possible to get cracks in just the render. And then you can get freeze/thaw cycles that expand the crack. You have ruled out this possibility, while I say it is a possibility. My best guess is that the brickwork also has cracks, but the size of those cracks is significant because it can...

I've had a brainwave. Instead of getting in an expensive consultant straight away, would it be safe for me to chip away a little bit of the pebbledash by the crack to see if the underlying brickwork also has cracks and how severe they are?

I think I am going to need a structural engineers report. They are a little bit more expensive but can diagnose more complex stress patterns on walls. I've been using an advanced AI and it suggests it could be a combination of factors, including aged lintel, stress from door hinges contributing...

The internal wall is solid brick, so I am not sure how much flex there is in it. And because they are only hairline cracks on the internal wall, I cannot see any sliding. One possibility I see is that when the door is opened, the raised metal bars hit the pebbledash. This, over time, has led to...

I agree with removing the conifer and I understand you are convinced that the wall has definitely sunk. You may be right. However, I disagree with the clutching at straws statement. What I am asking here is that if the external wall has sunk and cracked, why has the internal wall not done the...

Should the internal wall also have a similar sized crack if the building has moved?

Just checked and it looks like veneer.

Ok, let's explore this a little bit more. Firstly, the interior wall has a hairline crack, as opposed to a 5mm crack on the outside. My assumption is that the internal wall and external wall are likely to be connected. If so, why is there also not a similarly sized crack on the internal wall...

Let me clarify the point regarding the hinges because there might have been a misunderstanding. The hinges are attached to the door by a raised metal bar. When I open the door fully, there is no doorstop. The only way the door stops is when the raised metal bar from the hinges hits the...

I have a cabinet with some stains on, which have been there for several years. What type of stains are these and how do I remove them?

It is part of the house.

My understanding is that you turn the power off, use a non-contact tester to see if the wires are live and rubber gloves just as extra insurance. Or have I missed something? Yes, it is an old electrical system. The house was built in 1907. The fuses are very old fashioned, where I have to buy...