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Hurrah, swapped for a Wilo and it's working perfectly (so far), the install was a right pain, the 2" hex nuts for some reason only has 2 working sides, the third would not accept the spanner so had to rotate the housing every time to get past it. Also the hardest to get to one seems to be cross...

So Wilo Yonos or Yonos Pico? The Pico looks like a new energy efficient versios so I'm guessing it's electronic, also no manual I can find online, not sure how the self-bleed would work in a horizontal installation? Also there seem to be lots of comments that the non-Pico install needed new gate...

Hi, yes the new electronic starters still have a run capacator, but it's much smaller than the normal Start cap. Found a few people with them blowing up, a new one with a better voltage rating is 3 quid from Malplins. If you look at the video above Tony has kindly replied and switched to a DAB...

Dan, I like your thinking, I'm fairly sure it's blown the run capacator and probably caused by the changes they made to stop the start torque fusing the boiler relays on the early version of this pump, they did a quick fix and caused another issue... Tony, I agree the access is horrible to every...

I wasn't the installer, they may have one or two but they can't get back for a week or two Also as they work for 2 weeks and then fail I'm not sure it's a good idea until there is a clear idea of what's happening...but I'm feeling that may not be possible On my searches I found yet another...

I did a search on YouTube and found a video from February by Paul Maisons with exactly the same issue, his starts a lot quicker though, so if you want to see what's happening this is it

OK I've drained the system and had the pump off for a look, everything looks ok and the water was fairly clear (but wouldn't fancy drinking it!) The pump moves freely in my hand but does get looser the closer you get to vertically down but I'm presuming this is normal. Reverse flushed the...

Hi Simon, The light does come on, and it does try to start, and the impeller moves, about every 3 seconds, but until 2-3 minutes goes by it always fails and then with a whoosh it's off and running. And Tony, I'm a great fan of Nicolai Tesla, he came up with the old system so I'd be inclined to...

OK, Ran the pump from mains and it's exactly the same, it tries to start for 2-3 minutes and then starts running fine, no sign of it overheating (able to check as it's now running without the boiler). This is really stange...could be the start capacitor, but how do 2 go identically after 2 weeks...

Here is a pc of the rats nest that is the junction box, figured I need one if I'm going to try powering it outside this... I've circled the points the three wires are attached, the live is the brown one at the right end, with the orange from the valve and the neutral from the water heater...

Would this be a viable test? I could pull the wires to the pump, its just the 3 standard live, neutral and earth as far as I can tell, put them in a plug and see what happens? If it's not the pump it should fire straight up, and if it's the same then it's somethign in the pump electrics, if it...

I think putting the electrics on the top position will mean the wooden beam will stop it coming off instead, I think I'll have to pull it off, take off the cover then put it back in place without it... I can try moving the isolator but it it's a bit of a distance, I'm thinking that getting the...

Hi Tony, How can I check that, one is at the back of the house and the other at the front, on different floors, I could run a cable between them and check for continuty on the existing cable? The cable even goes up into the attic before dropping into the basement where the boiler is, it's a long...

OK, been testing the pump and I'm now fairly sure where the fault lies... Took off the big screw in the center and put my finger on the main shaft inside, and switched the system on, the pump is trying to start, every 3 seconds or so it fires and does half a revolution, there appears to be no...

Update, I decided to clean out the tank in the attic so held the ballcock and bailed the water into a bucket. Only is was more mud than water, I was actually worried about it cloging the drains so I wouldn't think it's good for the heating pipes.... However it's made no difference. Als I've...

I'm now thinking a dodgy pump housing might be the issue, I've worked out a way to close the isolator valves so I'll try getting inside to have a look.... I measured the voltage at the box the wire goes to, it's a cheap connector block and the inputs appear to be from the boiler and the orange...

Also checked the coltage and it's fine, 245V AC continously, no sign of a colapse when the pump is trying to start

I'm not sure why they tilted it, I had a brainwave this morning and moved it by using the nuts on the isolators and moving the whole thing, there was nothing stopping it being horizontal, I'm not sure they weren't trying for vertical... So now it's horizontal, however it's still the same, not...

OK, thanks, I didn't even know it could be sending a low voltage, would make a lot of sense given the original fault, I'll check with a meter

I'm assuming the boiler is controlling it, the pump light stays on when the boiler shuts off for safety, sometimes the pump fires up while the boiler is stopped (the boiler usually stops for a minute or so before trying again)