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... just kidding. I didn't know how to title such a sad and boring question without putting everybody off answering. Anyway! The front door of my house is set back from the front wall so that there is an outdoor recess. Above that recess is a piece of wood measuring 85cm x 35cm x 18mm. That...

I've just found some photos I took during the pour. So you can see the best laid plans in place with the DPM, bars and feet, and a lot of the feet intact around the edge areas with the concrete probably going about 50mm below the bars. But then the later pic showing some of the feet squashed -...

I suppose not. Just very frustrating to pay for contingencies and find I'd probably have been better off not bothering at all. I'm surrounded by morons who have to be checked constantly. You cannot trust anybody in this damned country.

Yeah there was some "cow's belly" earth below so building inspector suggested mesh as precaution. Probably wasn't needed. Could the situation I've described do any harm then, or is it just a case of metal in there, anywhere, will do some good, but worst case, neutral? He should've just got the...

Kinnell, we come full circle. The informational world keeps confusing.

Yes, concrete half bricks would've been better and my builder regretted using the plastic things. Those plastic ones have all openings in them so I'm not exorcting holes in the concrete, but they were rubbish. On laying the metal at the bottom, would it rust if there is a DPM and it is otherwise...

These ones didn't check. Plodded right through whilst it was still soft on the surface and put deep prints in it! Perhaps they like the smell of manure, which is the odour this slab is giving off? Thanks for the other information. My builder said it used to be laid at the bottom of the slab...

****ing cats!! Walked all over the beautiful smooth concrete. To hell with them and their owners!

It was surface rust in my case. Like dusty outer coating. Not flaking levels of corrosion.

But what about the mesh being somewhat uneven and not in the middle of the slab's depth (plus some squashed plastic feet things)... can this do any harm or is it more a case of the metal will be of some benefit just for being in there for the concrete to set around?

Thanks for the replies. The trenches were dug for the footings, 600mm wide, and then the builder filled with what turns out to be 300mm deep of concrete although in one of the corners stepped down to 900mm. He then used concrete block etc. above. The floor slab is now in. The the bars were...

Thanks! It's weird because I ended up speaking to several different suppliers today and asked them about the footings. Two of them said "best go with C25", one said "we'd never use less than C25! Not worth the risk and then you can go up to two storeys and don't need to worry." Another said...

Also, floor slab going in tomorrow will also be C20 and is having a steel mesh incorporated into it. Is C20 suitable for this application? I see some mixes are considered unsuitable where metal will be incorporated. Thanks for any advice.

Hi all, I've just ordered the concrete for the floor slab of my extension and they're sending C20 for it. I asked them what they used in my footings as my builder didn't specify a type when he spoke to them, just told them it's for the footings. They checked the records and said they sent us...

So how thick can a mortar bed be before it is too thick for structural purposes? I mean, what's he point of bricks if you can just have a giant slabs of mortar?

Thanks pal.

Oi oiiii! My new shed has a felt roof. It was erected in colder weather. I pasted on loads of this bitumen black tar stuff on where the felt sheets overlapped. It is now running down the roof in big dribbles in the heat. I'm thinking to disguise the running tar in the greenish coloured grit...

No, between bottom of engineering brick and concrete block.

Thanks, 23... so you don't think that remaining small block holding up the corner is a problem?

Yes, like the existing house. Is there a problem with that type?