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Is the mma set running on a genny then?

Youll be struggling to put on car wings nicely with a stick welder. If you must though, 2mm rods. For more info on welding , have a look here- primairly for MIG welding, but has MMA section aswell. Forum should be back up and running very soon. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/

Old roof lights from box profile sheeting by the sounds of it then. Brittle at the best of times. Go with the grinder, use a thin metal cutting disc to minimise the heat.

Someone suggested i didnt drill a couple of holes in some steel work a while back. I looked at them and laughed. I wonder how its all bolted together without any holes then :roll: :lol:

Small ones will be fine on 6mm plate, keeping it near to an edge will help. Anything bigger, and you might want someone to hold a dolly on the back if possible. A sharp hit rather than a heavy hit is better 8) Although numbers can be ground out, if if they are invisible to the naked eye...

For that sort of price, your looking at 190 diameter bladed saws.... If it was 60mm, it have no hesitation in recomending the Hitachi, a kick ass 1700w motor. 8) Cut depth though is stated to be 60mm, but does cut a couple of mm more.

Is it a 3 mode? Try holding the collar back and running it. It may manage to shake ist self out :idea:

Spax use torx heads. Nice for bigger size screws.

If your restoring machinery, you want a fairly big setup ideally? shot blasting as opposed to sand blasing, will remove much more in a much quicker time. Expendable grits are the cheapest, or iron/steel shot, lasts longer but needs to be recycled back through ideally. Open air blasting is...

They are advertising the NEW mondeo.... amking it out to be better than all other cars. The rest arn't exactly wearing a false mostache and rain coat :lol:

Drive it in, £70- £80 Have it collected, £40- £50

Not sure about ones with with adjustable vials, but the BMI Robust series are very solid. Extra ribs inside the extrusion at the bottom. Either that or Stabila :wink:

The flat welds to the bottom flange of the rsj, the toe of the rsj is normally at in 10mm or so to allow for a weld. The flat would be 220mm wide, then the rsj is say ontop of the flat, 220mm is a stock width bar :wink: .XXXXX ....X ....X ....X wXXXXw 0000000000000000...

The common way to do this, is a piece of flatbar, approx 220x10, (or nearest width to what you need) stitch welded lengthways along the rsj.

Maestros :lol: Earlier fords..

Ive had problems with some i have fitted. The cheaper they are, the worse they seem. Usually drill it slightly and put a self tapper in instead :wink:

They are called interscrews

If you put in a lot of big screws and bolts, id defiantly think about an impact driver 8)

I hardly ever use torque setting on mine. Only for delicate opperation, like screwing into the edge of mdf or assembling flat pack furniture. Put it in low gear for slower speed, but youll get more torque :wink:

Work it off with a grinder, 2 minuite job, a 5" or 9" will do it, which ever you can get hold of. Cut the top and bottom flanges, while its stood up, then flip it onto its side and cut the remaining web :wink: