Ive used out of date resin in the past, takes longer to go off than it should.
Adhesives, wod glues, especially the PVA types seem to go off, they turn a creamy colour and loose bonding power.
Sealants aswell, most seem to loose the smoothness after date.
The 'depth' of the tyre is the 70 bit.
Its 70% of the width measurement.
The dealer should have checked and supplied a matching tyre imho.
You can't mismatch different tyre sizes on the same axle iirc.
Well, you can, but i believe its n MOT fail.
The ones i have done have had small coach bolts slightly counterbored.
I have one i keep meaning to refurbish, i keep thinking iroko for the slats, but cost always makes me leave it for now :lol:
I thought you were looking into them rage saws back along...?
I gather you didnt buy one....
3mm will cut with a jigsaw, but its pretty slow going.
A few thing discs in a 4" grinder and you should be able to get a decent cut, especially if your going to clean it up afterwards anyway...
Depending on the type of plastic, some adhesives dont work. I tried glueing the glovebox back together on the wifes car, even with plastic adhesive. Thats polyethelene iirc. I melted it back together on the inside with a soldering iron.
For a replacment, try ebay or local breakers, rather...
Gently moving the arm left to right, and gently tapping the side of the arm works for me normally, sometimes if i have a copper mallet to hand i will tap the shaft whilst pulling the arm upwards.
For cleaning something like that, shot blasting is the ideal way, its slightly maor harsh than sand blasting. Id imagine the tiles could be covered or maybe even removed? foir the blasting process.
Find a local shot/sand blasters, they will probably have experience of doing many many similar...
Bonnet catches are a pain in th 4r5e on Lagunas. Getting it to close was always the problem with mine. Give it a really good oil up on all the cables and catches while its open.
They probably get a set of pads for £10 cost price, but whack on £20 on the labour charge.
I see kwikfit as one of them places people who dont have a clue about use.
I used a similar one when the exhaust broke on my van... they did a temporary repair 9 months ago. Tried telling me the...
I use one of the cheap esab ones at the moment, its alright as far as budget masks go, nothing special though.
The Siflite is reasonable, cheaper here-
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/shop/helmets.htm
The cheap ebay ones dont seem to function quite as they should all the time judging by what...
That looks like it is 3/4" or 1" bsp pipe fittings.... do you have the threading equiptment to make it?
If not id use keyclams. Only need an allenkey and a saw for that.
I use a 5" grinder too, with flap disc. Pull it along the ground edge of the bl
ade twice and is like new.
Even pressure and speed on both sides keeps it fairly well balanced.
Good enought for my grass cutting needs anyway 8)
If you are using resin, you just need studding cut to size, or precut studs.
If you need to drill into a cavity, the resin sleeves will be very usefull, as they prevent the resin being lost into the cavity as you push the stud into the wall.
Theres a guide to using resin fixings here
I did the pages a few years ago now.
For spacings, refer to your arcitect/engineers plans. They should be telling you spacings and sizes of the bolts.
If its nothing that requires that, let us know what it is you are doing and i am sure we can...
Id take it back to B&Q, and tell them they sold you the wrong thing. Typical :roll:
If you have an SDS powerdrill, then the sds bit are what you want.
If you have a normal chuck on your drill,( sounds to me like you do) you dont want an sds bit.
An sds drill, with an sds bit, will...
Some 310 stainless wire would be ideal... but in the absense of some of that, id use a few twists of the coathanger as suggested. Leave it long, twist with some locking pliers than cut off the excess.
Its only an incinerator, i guess it doesnt need to look special :lol: