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Thats how i have done it in the past, cut a nice patch from some thin timber, glue it in, and plane flush. Sometimes a little wood filler is needed. I have seen plenty that have been filled using polyfilla, and usually notices.

Being fairly soft, id think one of the cheap carbide edged holesaws would be plenty adequate. Drill to a depth and carefully snap out the core. :wink:

All the ones i have ever used have cut towards the baseplate on the leading edge of the blade.... So just as that Bosch is setup.

I have the same setup on my van, the coolant doesn't need to drop by much at all for the warning light to come on. Put a cup full in and it should be alright unless you have a problem with the level sensor.

Sounds to me like you have puled the shaft out of the top the clutch fork. I cant remember the exact setup, but i think its bolted into the fork with a clamp bolt....inside the bell housing :cry:

Have a look here... http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm Plenty of similar projects, and welding tutorials if your not already up on that. Forum for any more difficult questions 8)

Packet of maltesers? :lol: Stabilia for me too. The nice heavy aluminium ones. And look after it 8)

You ought to be able to get some pretty good gear for that sort of money, Chicago pneumatic, Ingersoll rand...desoutter are some of the top brands, perhaps slightly above your budget. Impact wrench will be the expensive one, if you want a heavy duty model

I have also had problems with cheap ones. Usually tension it up then put a spot of weld on it. If not drill deeper and use a different pin... Horrible things.

That looks like a fairly standard fitment jobbie, the hex size will be the important, that looks like 1 1/8" Kango, Makita, Bosch, Hitachi...and more.

Carver clamps.... piher bar clamps...Body repair type hydraulics...farm jack...or buy a couple of sets of clamp heads, and make your own. If it doesn't need much force, and doesnt need to move far, cut something slightly longer than the opening, put in at an angle and knock it down untill its...

Not seen them, but made one before. Flat bottom, with folded ends, to form an upside down 'top hat' shape, the castors go on the out sides. Easy in metal. How about some of them roller things, for moving fridges etc....appliance rollers. Might still be a bit higher than what you want, but...

They have come down in price a fair bit now, the evolution ones can be got for about £150 now. *not the diy sliding mitre sort. They are good, just watch how you start the cut, the blades are pretty robust, but do chip the teeth if you just force it down through. And if you do site work...

Cheap grinders are a waste of time, buy a decent one and it will run for as long as you can hold it. I use 5" grinders more than any other powertool. Bosch Blue or Hitachi gets my vote. Not just how long it lasts, its also how it is to use. Cheap ones tend to vibrate a lot.

I have one of them Wickes ones, identical except labels and colour to the Earlex machine. So spare filters/hoses shouldn't be problematic. Hose and extensions are pretty rubbish, but the machine itself works well. I use mine mostly in the garage for wood dust/shavings etc. The Numatic...

Housing joint, with dowels. Doweling that together alone would be rubbish. Youd only be relying on the strength of the bit of wood above the dowels. That nice hardwood decking would be just the job ;)

Stainless, but isolate it from the aluminium with a plastic washer. under a normal washer :wink:

They look like threaded inserts? A bolt type thread inside them? You would need to know what thread size you require. Similar ones here- http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/threaded_inserts.htm These screw in, the ones in your picture appar to be a press fit.

Money no object, Hilti DD110.... Cores screw straight on. :)

A carefully used razor blade cuts silicone well.