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If its hard going put it on hammer, TCT ones can be used with or without. Diamond ones shouldn't be used with hammer.

And of course, if youv'e used a crap drill bit, and gone too fast with it, theres a fair chance youve hardened up the stainless, which will give you even more problems. Slow speed, but plenty of pressure is the way for stainless.

I uses these sort- http://www.buckandhickman.com/find/product-is-327544 Very comfortable, and no fear of bits going round the sides. I wear prescription glasses aswell, and neither steam up. When wearing some sorts of mask, the face seal helps push the edge of the mask against your face.

The Dewalt extreme bits are good, get a set of the most common sizesfor about £7 iirc, 6/7mm buy a couple, throw them away when they get dull.

That got me some new socks once 8) Not from Karcher though :? Id whip the cover off, might be a loose connection of split pipe if you are lucky.

Two very different tools.... what do you envisage using it for?

Our blue bosch had a new chuck after a year :? Keyless junk! Cordless drill, keyless is ideal. Mains drill, keyed, every time for me.

Not if you buy a proper one....

Keep the ratchet, but buy a knurled spinner... sits between ratchet and socket, allowing you to easily turn the socket between thumb and finger.

Have you tried Axminster? I believe they make a lot of bits themselves, such as faceplates etc....

I had the same or similar problem when i had one. The bushes on the pin had moved out of place, and it had elongated the hole that they sit in. The ratchet used to move sideways, and the whole lot would go straight down. Might be worh a check of the holes, especially if you thingk the bushes...

Have you tried RS components? Not the cheapest people to deal with, but very helpfull, and an excellent range of stuff.

What it it...? If its very hard you might not even get through it, if its only a bit hard, shouldn't pose much of a problem, can you get in a steady stance to push all your weight on the drill?

I think a lot of people get tempted by the cheap gear, i know many makes will have a few different models in the same voltage range, a sub £100, then £100- £200 and £200+ Its a shame some people dont notice the differences, they just see a £250 18v drill, then a £100 18v drill from the same...

Bosch S4, or Dewalt Extreme bits are good, heller irwin, both pretty good. Im another one taht will buy 3 or 4 at a time on small bits, 5/6/7 especially

I would be inclined to cut a line an inch or so deep with a grinder, so you get a nice neat edge, then chain drill around the square just inside the cut. A few across the middle to be able to break the lump will help get it out afterwards. If you cant get hold of a grinder, drill and tidy up...

The 6.8 is the grade of bolt, the higher the number, the stronger it is. Something like a 6.8 is a cheap bolt, something like you might find in flatpack furniture. 8.8 is a very common grade, general purpose, used in things like construction. 12.9 is a very high grade, like you might find on...

Depends what class and grades we are comparing... compare an 8.8 to a class 80, and you have the same tensile strength...800n/mm2 Not an important issue for the job in hand i dont reckon though :? :lol:

A jar of vinegar and a brush will probably cost more than the bolts :lol: Shouldn't be more than about £3 for a big bag of new ones. If youv'e gone to the extent of blasting,galv and powder coating the rail, id be tempted to put in some stainless bolts.... Cost more, but sold in...

Is there a bleeder on the pump itself? Get it out of there with no air, then try injectors.