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Use a thin disc and it wont need any cooling from a squirt bottle. :roll:

Id imagine its almost impossible to cut from the inside? These things are normally pretty thin, so heat from the disc isnt a problem. Thats one of the reasons for the 1mm disc, they will cut so fast, theres virtually no heat discoloration. Peel back the plastic coating an inch or two at...

If it has folded edges you can't get it guily'd.

A 4.5"grinder, with a quality ultra thin disc will cut it as staright as you can hold it. Minimal burr, and no discoloration. Might just have to whizz a normall saw up it to cut the mdf. That is a professional manner ;)

If your up against it, why not just hire a dedicated drywall screwdriver for a couple of days? £25-30 for a few days id imagine

I have a ferm belt sander :lol: :oops: And a powerdevil planer :oops: :oops:

My favorite 9" is the 2000w Hitachis, nice and light, but plenty of power, and one of the smoothest running, virtually indistructable aswell 8)

Kango, Milwaukee, AEG, Atlas Copco..... call it what you will :wink: Milwaukee drills are pretty good.

Rattle a big hss bit around, running too fast and it will drill a pentagonal hole :)

Disc choice will be the key on this type of grinder. For cutting jobs, a good quaity ultra thin disc (1mm thick), such as Rhodius, Kromeflex, Dronco will vastly out perform a standard cheap cutting disc. And dont force it through.

The only one that springs to mind is the arbortech blades. Not the most refined piece off tooling, but good for rouching out some scrap wood. 8)

The number is pretty much the mean diameter bar the thread is cut from. So for example, an M10 bolt would be a close fit in a 10mm diameter hole.

They do work well on most staircases. Its easier beceause you can pull from a few steps above. We use them for large industrial gas bottles. Good for kerbs and things like that aswell.

A Bi-hexagonal socket, or 12point socket fits square heads. Something like this aswell... http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=F3LDWULJYPN0CCSTHZOSFFA?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=black+studs

Sounds like a charger problem Im not familiar with the Makita stuff. Id expect some cheap chargers only cope with low capacity nicads, where as some will cope with all types any capacity. Check that out.

Fixtures of the window, not the window... They are one of the best security screws, hard work to get out. Centre punch, smack in the middle, then drill the head off. Pull the handle/stay off. Then a good locking plier to remove the rest.

Half the tyre fitters around can only fit tyres.... they dont seem to have the brains to forsee a big lump of crud on the seat or rust on the edge of a rim will allow it to leak. 10 seconds with a wire brush... :roll: If its leaking round edge, a bit of bead-seal will do the trick...

Budget is the key decider here. If size is an issue, Kempi MiniarcMig are worth considering. Clarke ones seem much more popular than SIP or Sealey. A 180a machine will do upto 8mm thick at a push. Depending on joint type/position. Materials wise, Standard cheapy Mig/Mag machines are...

Starter motor connections tight?

I read something about zapping them with a welder a while ago... Chuck in 400amps at 32v... that should sort the little buggers :lol: :lol: