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Thermistors checked for correct operation and tolerance? Disconnected external controls? Polarity checked?

You could get one, but only if you think it’s needed. I would say half that for price, or as suggested, fit one yourself.

Ok. Anything you’ve tried but not stated in your opening post?

Imo sounds like a stuck microswitch for the hot water or diverter push rod. Not sure why you changed the pcb. @gas112 will be the one for this if I’m wrong.

Yes I’m well aware of what pressure it can be. All manufacturers give a minim inlet working pressure, they’re not the ones installing them.

Yes

It has an inlet working pressure, specified as a minimum value. Burner pressure can’t be measured being a Zero Governor.

Do you still have the bridge wire in at the wiring center?

As pointed out, it was changed recently.

Good afternoon @pete01 1 - We'd need to know the quality of your heating water to ascertain this properly. Plenty of systems if installed correctly don't need one. So if your system water is good, then no you don't. 2 - Not imo, but BG are expensive.

Supplier won’t do anything as it’s not their responsibility, it’s yours. Supply at the meter is only just under at 18, can now be 18.5mbar. If you’re getting 9.5mbar then something is definitely amiss. Do you know what test program was used? Gas rate definitely wrong as well.

Steam power?

Surely that would set it off all the time, or if I operate the thermostat? This is just when it cools down and kicks in. Mechanical programmer, mechanical thermostats.

Everything is hard wired, even the inter connect on the alarms. It also works fine when heating initially is on, only when the temperature drops and it kicks back in so they sound.

Still happening since me changing the alarms. Going tomorrow to change the programmer and get an electrician too.

I thought 110mm since that's the pipe diameter size, but didn't want to look a tit :ROFLMAO:

No photo visible. No idea, maybe push 2 together and get your tape measure out? Maybe look up the manufacturer you wanted to use?

Time for an engineer then me thinks, rather than risk injury to yourself, as you should need to carry out safe isolation.

Not to me. I would take them to a local plumbers merchant or even somewhere like Wickes and compare. Sometimes you can get away with a generic insert

I definitely thought overheating, as it was warm today when she had the heating on and not near another heat source. I’ve already put it down to be replaced, so it’ll either be a gas engineer or electrician. Thanks Harry.