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These are what you should have, so something is amiss

Yes, it is. Yep, it’s a combi boiler. 2 zone setup

Since there is already some thermal damage, and it makes a grinding noise apparently, can I change the programmer for a digital 2 zone one, rated as 3[1]? I think the boiler/pump you’re referring to is a Worcester?

Sorry, still don’t understand what that means. I understand I’ve got the 2 the wrong way around. There is some brown thermal damage on the front of the existing programmer/timer.

I’ve not done many heating controls and wanted to know, on a standard 2 zone heating system with a combi, existing programmer is rated as 6 and 2.5A (resistive and conductive I think) can I swap to a lower rated 3A one? Since, surely the fcu fuse will only be rated at 3A anyway. Also, the...

Wouldn’t go flexible. Maybe extend the grey coming out and 45 into the black on the frame, or offsets?

Rads are much of a muchness imo. Valves - steer clear of cheap shoite. Plus 1 for Pegler, Drayton trv 4 supposed to be good.

Did you carry out any testing like I said in post #2?

Turning to manual doesn't bring the heating on. So if you did that and called for heat it would end in the same result as now

That's not how your thermostat works by the looks of it. The motorised valve isn't likely sending a switched live back to the boiler. Voltage testing would confirm this, however if you move the heating valve lever and resistance is felt then it's not opening, if it's floppy then could be opening...

https://www.toolspareparts.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/7bc98fe5a14b2cf376a5dfc7585847e8/8/3/83855.png Any good?

Nope, these heaps of crap are the future unfortunately. Although, a big enough hex/Allen key should do the same job. Edit: If you need to replace the inside stopcock, consider a freeze kit or snatch it if not too much pressure behind when you turn off outside.

So reading this, @ericmark states it doesn’t show it with an rcd type plug, but states it is to be supplied through one, so maybe they changed the later models but same instructions? If it’s non-latching as per @ebee then it’s functioning correctly.

Thanks, but it wasn't for my existing job as a gas engineer, more just for diy purposes. Although, there’s probably been 1 or 2 times I could have done with a tap.

Stuff 50 years ago was probably better made than some of the crap available today, sometimes I’ve been burned by buying expensive tools. I bought some Wera screwdrivers some years ago and they lasted about 12 months, if that.

Maybe provide the make and model of pump so we can read up on it?

Elastic band?

Does it have a thread?

A pump stick (similar to submersible), a light and something else, possibly a heater

So I’ve just been, but didn’t get any of them. The Callipers I couldn’t make up my mind and the tap/die set doesn’t state what it’s made from. Although I am trade, I bought a Parkside hammer drill and impact driver approx 9 years or so ago and they are decent enough as not using them all the...