Search results

I do always pull the handle up when locking the door, so do you think I should get the fitter back and ask him to adjust the compression - though maybe he feels he can't do anymore adjustment?

My upvc back door has draught excluder all the way round with no gaps where the latch/ hinges are, that's how it's designed and it cost a lot less than my composite door

It's strange the fitter didn't mention this. Can you attach a photo to show what you've done? Would it be the same explanation for me getting draughts around the hinges too (though they aren't as bad as around the latch plate)?

Not had that problem fortunately. BTW we wrote to Gap who made the door but they didn't reply so far. If I ever have to get another door it'll be timber or uPVC

No. There isn't a solution as far as we can see. As there is no draught excluder over the latch plate and the hinges There's always going to be draughts as the door won't close if there was draught excluder over them. When we had storm Claudia the other week the draught at the latch plate area...

Turns out it was the washer in the tap

Have a combi boiler in my kitchen with the bathroom above it. In last few days the hot water in the bathroom wash hand basin has only been a trickle and after a few seconds can go to zero water. The bath hot water is fine as is that to the sink in the kitchen. What could be causing this?

Well I've had to have my central heating on more than I ever have before because of this. I have a gas fire and that's usually enough to keep me warm in my living room but now the side of me nearest the door feels the cold on a night. If I'd been told the door wouldn't be 100% draughtproof like...

He installed the new surround so everything looks uniform now as regards the door fitting the frame well but there are still draughts around the hinges and where the handle is. I've been onto Citizens Advice and they sent me a pro forma letter to send about poor workmanship but i said I don't...

I was going to do that but this morning the condensation inside the glazing that I'd photographed had gone! Maybe cos the room's been warmer as i had the heating on last night as it was so cold. I know I hadn't imagined it as I'd taken the photo but I can't get them back when there's nothing to...

Yes the seals had gone and the units were blown

I've lived the same way for many years and never had a condensation problem before until i got new windows to replace the old double glazed windows. Also I don't have any problem in the room where my gas fire is nor in my bedrooms.

I live alone so I don't generate much water vapour I don't think. I use shower in the gym so it's breathing, washing up a couple of times a week, and wash and shave on a morning, kettles a few times a day, pans on a few times a week and houseplants that generate it.. I don't have central heating...

The condensation is only on the bottom inch or so of each glazing unit if that makes any difference. So in the case of window with condensation between the panes, is that a manufacturing fault or could the problem have been caused during installation?

Surely condensation on the inside of double glazing isn't normal? I thought it was called 'blown' when that happens as it's supposed to be a vacuum? I have trickle vents open already and I don't use the shower as I use the one in the gym every day. As I live alone I don't generate much steam in...

2 months ago I had new windows fitted in kitchen and bathroom and a new back door with glazing that opens into the kitchen. Now the weather has got colder I've noticed condensation on the new windows and door and even when I wipe it off it soon recurs and I can see it glistening where the rubber...

He was back before Xmas and agreed with my measurements so he's gone back to the manufacturer about a new surround. I've noticed draughts round the 3 hinges now as well as elsewhere that I'd noticed previously. I've also got a problem with the upvc door he installed for my back door, it's...

Ooops sorry I meant 4mm and 3mm respectively!

the door itself is a uniform size. The internal opening height is 0.4mm shorter on the rhs than the lhs. The internal opening width is 0.3mm more at the top than it is at the bottom. So that's 'acceptable' in manufacturing terms? Is it still acceptable if deviation that still produces draughts?

We were only told we had to lift the handle in order to lock it with the key, they didn't mention that was anything to do with the seals but we do that every time as the door is never unlocked