Search results

Think we already covered this? https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/40mm-boss-adapters.655018/

we know thanks - @denso13 had already pointed that out. It was in response to slowdown response, hence the forum rule not to resurrect old threads, though I should know better and check

If the tile backer board is cementitious and at least 12mm thick, minus insulation, then that should be strong enough, to minimise deflection. if that was straight down onto the ply though then there would probably be movement in the insulation when weight was applied 2 primary reasons why the...

As long as it's at least medium density, light density would struggle to hold that if any weight was applied IMO.

As long as the washer is large enough so the edge of the bath waste sits on it so when it's tightened it forms the seal then that'll be large enough. If the bath waste has a sharp edge then don't overtighten the nut so it cuts into the sealing washer or file the edge flat, that'll be easy as the...

Typically 3 way valves do wear out but more so the motors/switches but the valves themselves tend to last for quite a long time, if it's getting sticky though then it'll probably be the spindle that is getting worn out. Lubricating will work for a time but eventually it will just go back to the...

It will be a flat washer with that flat face on the inside of the trap, the washer linked to above is more for say a McAlpine 11/2" bsp sealing nut with a recess that the seal sits in or a trap that has a raised shank and ridged shoulder that fits inside the bath waste up to the shoulder and the...

This is the fixing instructions that come along with that basin, it's also marked that it comes with the required fixings which will normally be - M10 screw bolts, plastic shimmed washers, steel washers and nuts, as is normal for a wall hung basin Wickes Cleveland Wall Hung Basin So the hole...

If the syphon is acting up/return sticking etc then TBH it's time to replace it, it's worked hard all it's life and doesn't owe anyone anything. You can get replacement diaphragms and springs but TBH it isn't really worth it. Appreciate it's a pain to replace a syphon as it's usually the...

Certainly get a plumber, experienced in soil stack work, in first. They should be able to assess what all may be needed and suggest if other resources may also be needed to do any groundworks etc

Is the system sealed or open vent? If the flow is only reaching 64degC on max then it's not an overheat causing it to cycle, if that was the case then it wouldn't normally run for ages, usually an overheat occurs relatively quickly on a boiler that can't get rid of it's heat. With this one it...

take the plastic arm off the lever and try moving the handle around the square in the plastic arm by a 1/4 turn

??

?? What size is the pipework? 22mm > 15mm or 22mm>10mm Output tempt on the flow pipe under the boiler if boiler on max? How long is the run to the HW cylinder? Certainly sounds like a circulation issue.

That looks like it could be salt glazed clay with a cement filler around the cast. Water's got in, frozen and split the clay away from the cement Could be something like this - a rest/socket bend Need to dig down a bit to see what's below it.

No reason not to if it's all accessible, always better over than under and, as suggested, if needed for any future requirements.

All I can suggest is, as someone that does this as a job, I come across more issue where items - sealing strips, tile edging strips, inside quadrants etc - have been used to bridge a gap from a roll top bath to a wall. If it is done whereby the water can't get underneath it and the bath edge...

I wouldn't - it just give the water somewhere to live if it gets in underneath and then invariably it'll mould and cause problems. Get a pack of silicone finishing tools, makes silicone work much more straightforward.

It's marked up as it comes with suitable fixings - typical M10 screw bolt fixing with a 14mm wall plug, plastic shanked washers, penny washers and nuts - that should all be fine, if it's going into a solid wall or nice fat batons, anything else then it'll need special fixings.

As long as the backplate is well fixed to whatever wall surface it'll be screwed to then it should break and loosen ok. Again though I'd still use Gas tape, 6>7 turns onto whatever male fitting is going in there and then make it just tight enough.