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Some people fit a condensation trap that the built up moisture drops into and exits the building separately. Found this little video, interesting that the bloke fitted a 2nd fan: Inline Vent with Condensation Trap. Plus another one with insulated ducting

Is there any Isolation switch upstream? The Black or Grey should be the Neutral and switched live but impossible to be certain. One should have been sleeved blue and one sleeved with some brown to denote it's a switched live.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Lighting_External_Index/Security_Lighting_Index/PIR_Detectors/index.html

A good read. I'm happy to keep the 80A fuse we don't have excessive power consumption. Nothing to cause overload on a 60A let alone an 80A that's for sure

Fellow DIY NOT people We're thinking of going fully electric car wise sometime in the future, we currently have an 80A fuse on a PME supply. Today we had our faulty Smart meter replaced by Octopus Energy, the chap even fitted a Dual pole Isolator! He mentioned to my wife we should contact the...

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MS4CCT.html not sure what happened to the link before

I'm in agreement with EFL, there's plenty of cable length on appliances to pull out for maintenance. It's not often people need to do this, a simply single socket behind them is fine imho and less clutter above work surfaces/tops. anyway. Grid switches can be fiddly to install too.

Do you have a TLC Branch nearby? https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Information/branches/ 4ft batten "Pre wired cable on the rear and quick connector included" These lights are easy to fit

The third photo shows an Earth symbol to the left of the screws, who said it was Class 2?

An SDS Drill with the ability to use just Hammer for back boxes and general masonry is something you'll need along with a Multi tool at some point too Tool Station (only low batteries)

From the Wiki

At the top of the board is an SWA cable which looks like it could be moved over to a knockout further to the right. The Tails with the "service loop" could be re-installed to enter from the top of the board but may not reach the DB main switch so could need re-wiring with longer tails. If the...

Thought B-A-S was back for a split second!

We have two showers that work off the combi boiler but don't use them simultaneously. I've recently seen a free standing Haier Heat Pump that is quite low power https://www.linkedin.com/in/graham-hendra-a0b0426/recent-activity/all/ have no idea how effective it is but that could feed your new...

As long as the circuit has RCD protection then yes, if it doesn't you could get an RCD socket or even change the FCU to an RCD type to protect whatever's on the circuit. I don't like seeing the gardening tools so close to the unprotected cabling, could easily get damaged if not careful.

I wouldn't really use a fused or unfused one, I'd rather an extension strip as it doesn't put any strain on the socket.

Looks like one cable is a spur to another socket. Do they all run down? Can you prise up a floorboard to see if there's much slack underneath & where they come and go??

If the box is mounted on a joist or similar and then the cable clipped with a cleat just before it enters, then all would be ok. Terminate the cable inside as I don't think the blocks would fit inside it, could be wrong though.

Every time a telecom O&M engineer visits to complete maintenance or complete faults & annual electrical maintenance which lasts three hours on each visit the tubes should last years & years.

I can't help thinking the hall could do with painting White rather than be left as Grey block work as light would reflect off the walls. Maybe as suggested by Frodo installing panels would give a more even spread of light but it is a different quality of light compared to old style Fluorescent.