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It's not so much "a problem" but more a question. Is it worth doing while I'm renovating the house.

Hi All, I have a traditionally built 1970s extension with a cold flat roof. I'm looking to build a new warm roof ontop of it, finished with grp. Keeping the existing 195mm birdmouth rafters. It's currently dead flat. Should I take off the current deck and ad furing strips to give myself a...

I have a 1920s home with soils wall.. The 1500cm opening above my kitchen has no external lintle. It seems to have. Very low arch. The internal course is supported by a wooden lintle. I want to ad a lintle to be safe however, I won't be able to get. 150mm heading. The maximum I can get is...

Yes, but even this sturdy wooden lintle looks like it will struggle to survive sir Kier Starling. It will probably need a digital ID card to stay in my wall.

Hi All, I've recently taken down some plastering in my 1930s house. I've got an old lintle that's currently overhanging it's header by about 1/1.5cm The lintle is 3inch thick. Do you think this would be OK, or do I need to address it.

Aa

As in my water bill?

I'm replacing my main water line which is currently a 22mm galvanised steel pipe.. I'm taking it from the meter outside and will be able to replacing the entire house, over time.. I've added an additional bathroom and will look to do a loft conversion (three bathrooms total). Water...

How would I capture that in a picture? Happy to take them? But it looks like a normal suspended floor, just shallow

Rotting timber joists and condensation.

I have terrible crossflow ventilation because of a shallow crawl space and no end of sleeper walls prevents air movement.

I've got a bit of an issue My crawl space under my suspended floor is very shallow - like 12cm from the bottom of the joists at some places. It's also got a load of bricks that the timbers sit on so cross flow isn't really a thing and won't be achieved. Im looking to insulate under the...

I can go down a bit to avoid the DPC. Is it likely to cause structural weakness being so near to the other? Alternatively, I can add another air brick. Does that carry less risk?

Hi All, I'm looking to add 100mm ducting under my suspended floor and as such need to core a 100mm hole through my solid wall.. I wouldn't be concerns, but last year I also cored a 100mm hole for a new soil stack which will be roughly 1.5m from the new one. I'm looking to core where I've...

Interesting. I've never seen that before.. Is it a company that does it or a diy job?

Do I need/should I seal my concrete base under my suspended floor? We have damp/mould problems and I'm planning to insulate and improve airflow to compensate.. While I have my flooring up, should I seal the concrete base with a liquid DPM? While it sounds like a good idea, can it cause...

They were clogged, now unblocked.

I've lifted my subfloor ready to fit insulation. My house suffers with condensation (1930) semi detached. Couple of questions... 1) what insulation is best for slightly damp environments but fire resistance 2) any suggestions on what I should do with my sub floor while I have access? I've...

Thanks Muggles, when you say meter to stopcock, you are referring to digging up the drive and changing it from outside right? I suppose that makes sense while access is easy.. Would It shock you if I said I don't have an internal stopcock? 1929 house build. Last, sort of a bonus question...

Hi All, I'm looking to replace my galvanised steel mains water pipe while I have my flooring up. Do I need to take the connection back to the mains water meter which is roughly 1 meter away outside the bay window or should I make the connection inside the house? Is MDPE the best bet? What...