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I understand that would stop damp transfer but what about cold bridging?

I will be fixing it in place with general grab adhesive and clout nails on the inner walls. Perhaps I'm needlessly concerned about making it completely level at this stage?

So add now before the closer is fitted rather than after? Or can it be done either way? Also, what's an acceptable tolerance to not need doing this? As I may end up with the closer protruding more on the inner wall if I do this and it's not required. If you get what I mean?

We have a bit of a mix of new window/ door openings and one external doorway where the new wall joins an old wall. The the new build in some areas has a variation of 10-15mm between the brick and blockwork so the cavity closer would not sit completely flush. I'm not sure what the normal...

Or have I misunderstood what needs to be done? Based on ^woody^ posting this quite some time a go.

We are renewing our existing porch by making is slightly bigger and building it from brick rather than half brick/ half double glazing. The architect has specified a saw cut which I understand would remove a section of the existing wall for a continuous cavity? The inner and outer wall of...

Yes, but doesn't that cause at least SOME amount of rocking of the PIR?

Did you apply anything to the brick wall? We're being instructed to apply a scratch coat render before studding but I'm wondering if I should tank the walls instead? More so for the external facing wall.

So would you suggest putting sand down in any areas lower than 2-3mm but leaving the rest as they are? Perhaps laying the PIR in a way that it doesn't over hang beams so there is always support at the ends?

Having spoken to 3 different screed companies, the current product of choice seems to be Cemfloor - a concrete based screed which I was advised to go for 50mm. This would take us up to DPC with a 90mm PIR. There are no door frames in place and the ground floor is literally an empty shell at the...

Thanks @noseall It's about 140mm to damp for insulation and liquid screed. Not ideal as I wanted thicker insulation but having to retro fit the floor into the existing house has meant we've just had to make things work. I feel like I'm over thinking it but if the PIR was 100mm would having...

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We have had to install a beam and block floor throughout the whole house on the ground floor. Despite having spread sand and cement slurry across it, in some areas the blocks sit about 1-2mm lower than the beams. Bearing in mind we have to lay PIR and screed - should I be worried about the...

I've read enough to decide against the idea of building off the top off the retaining wall. We have just enough room to extend the concrete pad and potentially leave some gap to build the garden room. Thank you all for your replies.

Does that mean a void behind the retaining wall? The intention is to back fill it once the wall is made so there should be no soil movement. Unless I've misunderstood what you're saying?

The base is not really of concern. During extension/ garden remodelling we found out that our garden is virtually a massive concrete pad. Ours and neighbouring roads were out grounds for a famous 19th-century family of philanthropists. They housed stables, servant quarters, laundrette, etc. The...

hmmm... every builder who came to quote said a brick faced 9" solid wall with block on the back would be sufficient. What do you suggest? Re the water proofing, this is my understanding of how the vertical DPC would be placed. The image shows a gap but in reality I think these would be tied...

Thanks for the reply. So the waterproofing would be by way of this vertical DPC or are you suggesting other measures are required? If other measures, what would they be? Tanking the walls from the inside?

Hi, We are having a retaining wall rebuilt after reducing the height of our garden. The tree beds are varying heights around the edge of the garden and therefore the 9” wall steps up in one place from 0.8m to 1.5m and then back down again. See my crude artwork below. As part of reducing the...

We are converting the garage as part of our extension/ house renovation. One of the walls adjoins the neighbour’s garage is a single skin wall and the front (where the garage door was) has also be rebuild in single skin. The specification from the architect is as follows: UPGRADING EXISTING...