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Fluke volt sticks are more reliable than a neon screwdriver, very handy for just checking for a live. However always best to check with a meter as well, or check on a known supply first and after with the stick.

I know it really winds me up. I have City and Guilds 236 Part 1 and 2, Am1 Am2, 2381, 2391, 232 parts 1 and 2 and 8 years experience, yet I am not part P compliant, ridiculous. Yet someone can come along take a few weeks worth of courses and be able to do this work.

Yes

Our local Edmundsons Electrical do standard plug top 2A fuses in packs of 10. Try them if you have one near

As long as you put it through an RCD protected Switched Fused Connection Unit then yes you can do.

Im not on about me working on the equipment. Im on about factory workers the machine stops working, a few people gather round some start fiddling with settings while one tootles off to flick back the breaker, while they are still messing with the machine on comes the power and owww there goes...

Thats as maybe, but I don't set the rules where I work for does. Besides it wasn't specifically lighting breakers they were messing with, but machinery breakers as well. This is dangerous as I have lockoffs etc to enable me to work safely isolated. The machine was tripping and these people...

As for reseting breakers in the 3 phase board, normally only sparks are allowed to touch the breakers again h&s. Altho I have worked in some places where as long as the board is within reach (no tools needed to access it, such as ladders and screwdrivers) then staff have been allowed to flick...

It depends where in Yorkshire you are, Calderdale Council are wanting some

Actually where I did my apprenticeship it was a disciplinary action against you for touching anything electrical which you should not be, such as changing a tube in the office etc... Any decent firm with a proper health and safety setup will do the same. Secondly your being a pedantic t*t...

After reading several posts, I have come to the conclusion that Andy is an apprentice with a chip on his shoulder, so when you have a few years in the trade domestic/commercial and industrial then you can voice your opinions on whats right and wrong. I was always taught you have to be...

Have you put any pictures up etc, done any diy recently? As 99 percent of all this kind of fault in council houses are caused by people putting up pictures etc and nailing straight into the cable run.

Is it the RCD thats tripping or the MCB If the MCB stays up and the RCD trips then, 1. You have excessive earth leakage, caused by either a faulty appliance or cumalative appliances leakage totalling +30mA 2. You have a neutral/earth fault on your circuit. If the MCB is...

Not sure, ours were a standard allen key type fastening 5mm i think.

I had a problem similar a few weeks ago, it was a loose connection in the Cu on the neutral bar, this had caused it to burn up and eventually start affecting the whole house electrics. The only cure was a new CU. Check the consumer unit see if there is any burning inside, if there is then you...

This happened some time ago to our PVC door. I'm an electrician by trade so not a door specialist, however I solved the problem by taking it off the hinges then fiddling about with it. Not done it since anyway.

The part you are after is a thermostat, any plumbing merchants/electrical wholesaler will have one. Best thing is to take your existing stat as a sample, as their are different sizes available. How do you know it is the stat for sure ??

I agree with Crafty your being ripped off. Mine was £23 and it failed retest was free as long as I had works done to the car within 2 weeks from 1st test

Take off the main cover after isolating mcb for it You should find under the cover for the output /input dials, a thermal type fuse link or a little reset button. Check the fuse is ok with a meter as sometimes they appear ok but are infact broken, if a button type press it, if it clicks then...