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Ideally you don't want to go through the first layer but occasionally it happens when not concentrating properly, honestly with proper ' torx' concrete screws the screw heads normally sit fairly flush , not like that s crew you have there as a fitting

Yes... don't countersink too far just enough for the heads to sit flush...it's thicker than you think ...a good few mm thick and even if you counter sink too far you'll hit thr next chamber and can just cover over the oversize countersink hole

Not a fan of that at all. Guessing they are ' knockin' screws ? We use a window fixing screw with a torx head , 6mm hole into the concrete , countersunk, very rarely do they pull through the plastic unless you are over eager with the countersink

Trickle vents are used mainly because they are the easiest solution. If the property has Mechanical/heat ventilation, ( MHEV ) Positive Input Ventilation ( PIV )or Air bricks then you don't need to trickle vemts but very few properties have those , and unfortunately just saying you are...

It could well be too much dessicant in the spacer bar. No one has actually proved either way whether this is true or not, i believe it was more prevalent in certain types of dessicant more than others. As Crank says , a new unit is the only way to solve this I'm afraid

Timber will be much more expensive.... has been that way for a long time. Hard to tell the pricing without some.aizes and an idea of the ' non white colour ' , as some non whites aren't ' stock ' colours and will be more expensive and on longer lead times. And whether any toughened glass ...

If you haven't already, report him to checkatrade .. never know they might be helpful but I have my suspicions lol

If you know the name of the installer then you should be able to look up on the websites of fensa etc and see if he's a registered installer. If you have no certificates and he's not a registered installer then you have no insurance backed warranty. This doesn't help you at all but I see...

Repeating Cranks excellent advice.. First port of call is the original fitter... if he/they no longer Trade then were you issued with any form of certification saying this conforms to building regs, eg Fensa , Certass or a new company called Assure. If you were then there should be an...

Yes it's very odd to use a new joiner unless they damaged it and then the cheaper option was the new joiner. Glad they've agreed it's not right. Packing it may not be the solution. I'd want to know why that joiner isn't sitting level, packing the frame up doesn't solve that in my opinion and...

Well spotted Crank!

That lends to my suspicion.. but for one reason or another that joiner isn't sat level and without that being level the toplight will never be level. Whether it's a weld not cleaned up properly, the sidelight frame being off square lifting it or even a screw not pulled in right enough you'll...

Saying that if the sidelight is slightly out of level , again the joiner won't be level as one edge of the sidelight frame could be protruding the top of the frames ...so again the joiner won't sit level

So sounds like the toplight only . Os the joiner u der the top frame level ? My suspicion is that when the joiner has been put on the fitter hasn't made use the welds are smooth on the top of the frame and the joiner isn't quite sitting level ... thus the toplight isn't level....but it's only a...

What we are trying to determine is if the whole setup is off level or just that toplight

OK so the frame itself looks like it has been manufactured correctly. Are the doors and panels below the toplight level? Or are they both running the same way as the toplight?

OK so it's definetly not sat square right now. Can you measure the visible size of the glass on the left and right and top and bottom please? Trying to work out of the frames out of square through fitting OR manufacture. You could also check if the frame is level at top and bottom of the...

If with a level you can prove it's unlevel , then the fitter has no argument against it and should straighten it up , my concern is as that is above a door... is the doorway out of square too. Unfortunately you have to ignore the canopy and whether it's level or not ... just concentrate on the...

OK perfect , no cracked frame or welds... As goes the install , it's already been determined that the canopy does indeed slope so it's always going to look a little strange. As others have said, using a level is the top light level on the horizontal? If it is then there is nothing that can be...

Have they fitted NEW frames? Or just refitted the old ones ?