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Just to set the record straight , glass sealed units themselves aren't actually Energy rated ( even though many places sell them as such ) , it is the entire frame and sealed unit that gets the energy rating. Back to your issue .. the uprated sealed units are doing their job, keeping the heat...

Low e coating was a building regulation requirement in 2007 ( in fact came in in April 2002 ) , so it should have Low e . Warm edge spacer wasn't widely used until 2010 when the building regulations were again changed and Window Energy Ratings introduced .. most companies opted to use warm edge...

Firstly - Condensation won't magically disappear with new windows . Condensation is water vapour collecting on the coldest surface..in this case it just happens to be your windows. So by getting new thermally efficient windows , yes your windows will not condensate as they are keeping warm BUT...

First thing is indeed to check if the door is level, upright and plumb... so a long spirit level on the uprights of the frame to check.its in upright and a smaller one to see of its actually level

Interesting... what's the make up of the sealed unit? As at a 16mm cavity I'm getting both clear glass and Bronze tint coming out at a u value of 1.2 ( both being argon filled and Soft coat Low e glass) If you are after more light then stick with clear glass , as any tinting to the glass will...

https://www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/products/product-categories/decoration/pilkington-texture-glass-wired Even Pilkingtons say it isn't... and they make the glass

Well seeing as I deal with glass every day .. my glass wholesaler. It is no longer a safety glass in obscure ( cast ) form, clear ( polished) is however . It is correct it also isn't a fire rated glass. A lot of misinformation regarding Georgian wire cast ( obscure ).... think I'd rather trust...

Looks like a Vectis door lock to me , if so can be converted using a new gearbox to a standard eurobarrel lock, Can't say I've ever come across a jammed one do can't help with that

Your biggest problem here is that Georgian Wire Obscured Glass is no longer considered a safety glass. ( and honestly trying to cut a hole for a catflap in it is a nightmare! ). As it is already fitted it complies with building regs, however if you remove it and are looking at replacing with...

I hate tilt and slides! A lot of the older mechanisms are not available now . Dgsupplyline might be able to help but last time I tried to get an older part 6 months later it still hadn't arrived and I cancelled the order!

Give him a few days to reply, he does a lot of work for Insurance companies , so does have a very full time job lol

It's a mullion cap you are looking for and @crank39 will probably be able to identify the profile

The ends of the cill cap do ideally need sealing as that's a hollow.profile and potentially could let water in BUT all things considered that is unlikely. The bigger issue is the silicone... unless you have drain caps ( or holes ) on the face of the bottom.of the frame then water had no way to...

Just to add to Cranks reply , you may need a second ' scraper ' to act as a wedge when ypu get the first gap appearing. I've had some really tight beads lately for some reason. And just a quick note... apologies if i don't reply quickly , don't seem to be getting all my notifications coming...

Is the pz definetly 85? Centre of spindle to centre of the circular bit in the eurocylinder

I'd say that your water is getting in above the window.. maybe blocked gutters or roof tile missing, underfelt damaged? Water will always find the route of least resistance

Start in the middle of the longest bead

I would have hoped that the window would at least meet the external render. A knockon/addon would have solved that gap in an ideal world. Hopefully they have foamed that gap trimming over it

We use a very similiar tool to your picture tbh. You could also use a stiff paint scraper

Hard to tell from that pic ... but most ali has a ' wedge ' gasket that'll need removing so the glass can move and release the bead