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A few concrete screws with Form A washers will be fine. Quick and easy.

50mm in an 80mm wall is fine.... I cannot prove it but I think the wall I partially filled performs better than the one I full filled. There is a theory that the sound is killed off better when it has air space and has to pass materials of varying density, all gets too complex for me though!

Job done! To get everything perfectly level there are bits of DPC and lead used as packing where required. Thanks for all the input, 6x2 was probably a very good idea, and I cannot notice any deflection under foot.

Great, thanks for explaining. I misread mm as m. Very useful and re assuring information!

Sorry, was a bit too technical for me. The span before was 2.2m, and it still is. But with deepeer timbers?

Wasn’t I at that anyway? But now it’s 2.2m with 150mmx47mm ?

I think I'll do this... I definitely don't want cracked tiles and a complete tear out to resolve it. Will take some extra time, but hopefully make things worry free! 100mm of PIR going in between :) No tiler appointed yet, and the wife adds this week that we need UFH, so that's nice! Once...

You have building sand, where as you would need plastering sand. rendering (Which is what you propose) doing isn't going to look good until you have a decent amount of practise. @Stuckinarut thinks you want to do the outside of the chimney, but if it's inside, 1:5 would be OK. But... it will...

Doing this job next week. Is 4x2 with noggins every 600mm and the ends going to be sufficient and bounce-free? It's half the price of 4x3, unsurprisingly. Thanks :)

Those timbers that have been used to infill the chimney aren't right. It should have new sections sistered to the existing above and below, running over 800mm each way, with 3x M10 bolts each side at 200mm offset centres , with toothed washers in place. But, it may 'do' as it is.

es, the bathrooms are to be lowered. Nice trick, and I'd never have thought of it! As it happens, I need to remove the floor, anyway. I need to run the 110mm drainage underneath, and lifting the joists seems like an easier method to do that. The joists only serve this space, so lifting them...

Added span info, oops! 2.2m

We are trying to keep the entire house floors flush throughout. The bathrooms are all going to be tiled, and so a tiler has recommended allowing 20mm for this. Current floor beams are 125x50mm rough sawn, span between sleeper walls is 2.2m. I am keen to avoid having to reduce the sleeper...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milwaukee-4932471357-One-handed-Tool-free-Integrated/dp/B082L14L7D I started using these a couple of years ago, and really rate them. - Flip easily - Cuts string closed - Blade change is very easy and tool-less

Sand and cement will make a good base coat, if you have plastering (washed) sand, but more work than a bag of Hardwall. You will then need plaster to make the top coat, usually Thistle MultiFinish.

Concrete (typically 20mm stones, sand, cement, water) is for foundations, and concrete blocks Mortar (Sand and cement (4 parts to 1 part approx), water) is for attaching blocks or bricks together in a wall Cement is just a component, rarely of any use just on it's own.

If it looks wrong, it is wrong. They need to re-board it.

A strip of 4mm MDF glued to the back of the architrave would do it, then just plane it back where the plaster gets in the way. 4mm... or whatever thickness you find you need to make up. Where we had the walls re-skimmed and later project new door linings, I used 18mm architraves on one side...

Mortar wont work anywhere near that thin. Clear CT1 or Sticks like would do it. But if you use too much and it gets on the face, it will go shiny until it weathers off.

https://www.dunelm.com/product/ashton-metal-double-layer-extendable-curtain-pole-1000234915 They aren't that expensive..... we used this in a room