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The architects offered to do the structural diagrams for me. There was no SE visit. I wasn’t advised to do so, or even aware that sort of thing was available. And obviously now I really wish I had been given that advice for an SE visit before construction started. Also surprised the builders...

What I've learnt from going through this, and what advice I was given over this weekend: 1) Always insist on full structural survey for structural diagrams (lifting up lots of floorboards etc), don't do it from architect diagrams alone. (I didn't even know this was available, until I hit this...

“How very strange. You would think he would have cancelled the steels as soon as he saw the existing joists were not 3x2’.” “If there was an existing conversion there, perhaps the architect should have picked up on this rather than just assuming.....” I asked my architect friend, and he said...

I had two different engineer friends help me this weekend, they confirmed my suspicions that at most i’d just need to sister some boards as what is there is borderline acceptable for the span. I know very little about building work, it was only a suspicion and then frantic googling to see if I...

I wrote to the firm, asking them about the steels they placed in the existing floor. This was there answer: “The engineers design is based on finding a structure within the existing floor and checking it against what the engineer has shown. I assume that the builder did not find any steels...

I've attached the two relevant parts, from the diagram the architect provided. The first shows the side profile and the four steels. The diagram shows the steels in the existing floor (not raising any height). The builders say the diagram is wrong, the existing joists go the wrong way, so the...

We have a standard semi detached Victorian home. We are converting our existing loft with small dormer to a full size mansard. To do this we are being asked to put in 4 steels. 2 above the existing floor, 2 in the ceiling. Because the existing floor joists runs the wrong way, we are being told...

The other option, is I have a much closer by flat roof (no eves space), that is directly above (after going past one floor). If I could put the extractor fan externally on that flat roof, that would be an option.

I have an existing VentAxia ACM100 in one bathroom and I think it's brilliant. I'd really like to run another inline from my other bathroom, as the "silent" one in the wall is noisey and poor extraction compared to my inline, but the distance is much longer. Depending which way the builders...

I rang Poole Lighting, they confirmed that the connections can get wet, but there needs to be ventilation - so only suitable for decking. I returned them and have decided to give it as miss, you said the lighting suitable for concrete gets very expensive, very quickly. We are just putting some...

My TV is still sitting on the floor - too much DIY, so that's at the back of the queue. However I did decide on this product: http://gripitfixings.co.uk It looks like it will be the most secure and will not put as much pressure on the plaster. They do recommend you get the specialist drilling...

I bought some Ikon Pro lighting to add to the edge of our paving - the paving is 2 inches thick and laid on concrete. The product advertised itself as IP67, so I assumed that was safe enough. Prior to fitting, on reading the instructions, they said to not use with concrete. I'm wondering if...

I know, I'm furious that the last builder who did my heating did this :( I only just found out once the leak appeared in the wall and I dug out the plaster. I'm not in the trade and I know that pipe connections not accessible should be welded. I would love to remove the plastic pipe and do it...

Found this, also issues a certificate of testing against Polybutylene: http://www.rectorseal.com/web-media/1282.pdf So I think I'm all set, should be ok to use a little tape plus this tru-blu.

I found this at tool station, says it can be used on pvc and cpvc "RectorSeal® Tru-Blu™ is recommended for pipe made of galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, PVC, CPVC, polyethylene, and reinforced fiberglass."? http://www.rectorseal.com/rectorseal-tru-blu/...

I have a plastic pipe on which a brass compression fitting with copper olive is used. I do not know what the of plastic the pipe is, although it's used for heating. So I'm reluctant to use my Jet Blue Plus, just in case it's ABS, PCV or CPVC. Some places just say use ptfe, other say not to use...

Thanks all. I'm just going to replace everything except for the plastic pipe that cannot be moved, the parts are not expensive. The copper pipe is oxidised and covered in bonding, and I read that inserts can be damaged, so best to replace. Maybe they could just be re-used, but the parts where...

I found this article, suggested using an expanding rawbolt. Tried it, worked great. Luckily the insert was smooth. Mark

I have a plastic pipe used in a brass elbow compression fitting. The things leaking, so i've had to remove and replace but I don't have much leeway and cannot damage the pipe in anyway - the other side is embedded in concrete, under a tiled path and would be prohibitive to have to fully replace...

Interlux downlight claims 620lm for 6w, with a 60degree beam. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Generation-Samsung-Driverless-interference-residential/dp/B014Q5R372/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=00AB3MZM2JVMQ4SCBQDK Compare this to the industry defacto standard Aurora m10. Which produces 530lm for...