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If the blue pipe is emerging from underground it appears be your mains supply fitted with a drain above the mains stop tap.

Yes, I was referring to closing them as each radiator filled in turn. I was imagining if I were following the instructions, I'd be alone, I'd have to put one of those plastic stop ends on the vent pipe. I understand if all the bleed valves were closed the only path for the mains water would be...

If I’m not mistaken, backfilling a system through one of the downstairs radiators, all of the downstairs radiators could be filled if the bleed valves were open and closed in turn, and then the same with all of the upstairs radiators before the water reaches the F&E tank outlet and finally the...

I've never had to do it but that's what I understood John to have said earlier.

I just wondered if a lot of sludge had got into the system and there were a number of blockages spread through the house. The gravity fed water from the top up tank doesn't need much to stop it - hence the advice being given to back fill it using mains pressure.

Before you cleaned out the tank was there just a "normal" level of sludge ... a few mm in the bottom ? It wasn't higher than the outlet presumably ?

If from an empty system even one of the downstairs radiators fills up properly it puts doubt on the top up pipe being blocked. If one of the downstairs radiators fills up but only slowly then eventually they will all fill up and you’ll be running normally but with a partially blocked pipe from...

Thank you for that

Terry, can you explain for DIYers like me ... Q1. What position is a 3 way valve in when it's latched? Q2. Do you need to un-latch it afterwards or does it do it itself on the next action? Q3. What other circumstances does the manual lever come in useful? Thanks Ray

You could do with the water leaving the tank in a hurry rather than trickling out, a bung in the outlet or valve operation if you have one. Sorry John, posting at the same time ...

Before you start … it may be helpful to know if, by then, all the radiators are full upstairs.

When our boiler was renewed and repositioned in the loft we found the top up pipe was blocked. The solution was to cut the pipe and fit a penny valve in order to attach a hand operated air pump to release the blockage. The F&E tank is about two metres and 4 elbows away from the valve. It was...

While waiting for a more informed reply ... have you turned the circulating pump up to full speed Ray

:giggle:

Thank you John, I'm hearing that for the first time. I hadn't realised the boiler temperature could be so low for CH ... but not surprised now you've explained it. I thought we had our boiler on relatively low and the radiators are still almost untouchable. Presumably you need an elaborate...

Living on the edge of the countryside our garden was levelled and raked 30 years ago and the lawn arrived on the wind. I cut it maybe every 10 days, it's never had any feed and we don't own a hosepipe. Our two neighbours on the other hand have had people coming on a regular basis with various...

Thank you MB I've always had them separate until this week. Just observing the radiator and HW temperatures by touch I'd be surprised if it were using more energy in the combined 1 hour than the previous 2 hours. Before HW 6am to 7am and CH 7am to 8am After HW and CH 7am to 8am The HW doesn't...

Just out of interest we’ve now got the HW & CH coming on together at 7am to 8am and it’s working fine. Thank you again for your help Ray

I think so - in a fashion - pressing the button at the side of the Nest Stat shown in an earlier picture puts both CH and HW on. While the tank stat would control the HW I'm not sure about the room temperature under these circumstances. I'm not sure where the actual thermostat is, but if the...

I need a way to resolve this if only to reduce the chances of our occasional valve buzzing happening in the night. I'll start by manually flicking the HW on for a few minutes last thing. One problem with the Nest is it only applies 30 minute intervals Thanks Ray