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Little update. I have just found a spare bar as I have loads and compared it and it is definitely bigger. But only slightly Current one that is spinning in mechanism is -6.9mm My spare ones that feel/look correct size -7.9mm. Used a cheap gauge. It does not fit in existing the door...

Yep sussed that I had to just press # when I had it that mode when I could see it trigger the PIR/ 4 zones. I had the 24hr led off I think withn 1234#. Not 100% how but it is off It already triggered when I got there as tenant had removed the control box cover. so it seems the alarm is...

When I do 1234* it does same tone beep and whatever zone/PIR is being activated shows on the corresponding pad. When I do 1234 to set alarm I it does a dual tone beep but does not seem to set the alarm ON? The PIRs are getting activated though when I was doing this. Would this prevent it from...

Alarm is stopping with 1234 as above but it seems as if it’s not the code to actually set the alarm on and off as if u were leaving the property. Ive tried 1234* as someone above stated do that then enter new pin. But when I do 1234* it beeps continuously and it’s like it’s in monitor mode as...

Hi All Just been to look at a friends rear door as they said it was not working and they have removed handle and bar. They have been ‘turning’ the inside square of the mech with a screwdriver/pliers and have rounded it slightly now. I asked for the handle/bar and was amazed at how small the...

I have just been called to a Securit 800 (L?) as external sounder was going off. Only the rear one? I suppose these also have internal batteries. I think the rear external battery is now dead though. I removed the the cover on the internal control box and obviously it triggered the tamper and...

Hi All My bath waste always seems to leak after a few months. I have always fitted the cheap McAlpine £6 plastic type with push on overflow and used cheapest Screwfix silicone. I have now purchased a proper McAlpine CBWF70CB as in pic. I have been advised by local plumber to add a small...

I think it travels down to engage as the other windows do (ie they both travel in to close and expand/travel out from handle to engage lock) I just googled a spreader bar and bondage gear showed up pal. I’ve got loads of pry bars. I think this one would do it. It’s quite thin. Thanks for...

I can easily remove the beads/glass unit. I’ve replaced plenty of them. I’m also aware of the backseats. I can just take existing one to UPVC near me or I’ll remove the bottom ‘pin’ temporarily somehow and post a pic of it on here. What is the best way to actually open it once glass is...

Hi all I am unable to open a window as the bottom is stuck/not moving with the handle? The top part opens/locks ok as when I try to open it I can push the window and create a gap as in pics. Amy ideas on how I can open it and check the mechanism without damaging/forcing it open?? Cheers

Correct. I have replaced both/swapped them. Etc The only thing is the punp. It gets red hot after continuing firing

My existing ones read as above. Around 0.8-1k. It will fire up on both the old ones when swapped but with the same problem on CH. The two brand new ones I have off eBay read 11k!! I had 2 as I stated the first o excess faulty. If you look above you will see I did a resistance test/temp...

Also what has confused me is that the HW and CH will not work if the new stats I had. It’s as if the resistance is to to high even though that’s what it requires. The resistance does not match what I posted above given by on the manual. The new ones will not work on either HW or CH. but both...

Ahh. I quickly jumped to conclusions that the ‘Flowmater’ (136) was on the CH. It’s clearly on the HW!! What a stupid mistake. All LEDs seem to be fine even though the diagnostic capabilities of them is very vague imo…… LED is the one that is ON/OFF. Unplug thermistor goes off/adjust HW...

Ahh. I quickly jumped to conclusions that the ‘Flowmater’ (136) was on the CH. It’s clearly on the HW!! What a stupid mistake. All LEDs seem to be fine even though the diagnostic capabilities of them is very vague imo…… Everything works. All conditions met. I have HW and CH (trips after...

What is the process to measure for trip current? I’m getting nuisance trips on my old Wylex RCD. Obviously set to RCD and connect as usual. Just unsure what to select on the F1 to F4 buttons? I presumed the auto test would display trip times AND trip current when set to auto?? I know the old...

Hi all I’m an industrial spark by trade but just got purchased a cheap KT64DL. 4 year apprenticeship ONC HNC HND Degree I’ve always used flukes/meggers in heavy industry so this is new to me. I did do my 16th Ed when I started in 1991 but since then I’ve dealt with industry stuff. PLCs...

Pump has 240v going to it. I have not tested it tbh as my rads weee getting warm after continuously cycling on/off. It nods no think to check it as I’ve only had pumps fail when they blow a fuse or get red hot with heating off. What’s the best test. I can ‘feel’ it running. It has 240v on...

Exactly. Only seen them on flues.

It’s been bullet proof. Only had replace fan and PRV since 1997. No diverter valve as seperate heat exchangers. I’ve also had absolutely awful model Ferroli like the Domicondens with the clips/rubber seals. Dreadful boilers. ! Any ideas what is going on with the thermistors? And why it’s...