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Having it looking like it's precariously balanced on the edge of the fused spur wouldn't be my definition of neat. I don't think the fused spur box will be big enough as it is, if you buy this and replace the back box I think it'll fit though. Are those wires coming out of the spur or out of...

If your existing pipes are run in notches under the floorboards, cutting out and replacing with copper is the best solution. Rodents can't chew copper!

Probably something like this

I don't think it's a workable solution, which is why I suggested running a new cable. If that's unfeasible, my next suggestion would be to buy a wireless thermostat instead, and mount the receiver next to your "wiring centre", again with a new cable - edit : actually in this case you'd likely be...

Left bottom cable to boiler, right bottom to thermostat correct? Would you be able to run a new thermostat cable easily enough? Extending it on both sides is going to be crap. I'd go for a 1mm 4-core flex.

Where is the white cable on the top of that picture going?

I don't see your thermostat cable in there. I take it you have a hot water tank and wiring centre?

It should really be in a box. Can you take a picture of how much length you have on the cables currently?

I don't see a lot of difference providing the cable is securely clipped.

Wago is the usual maintenance free spec

If you cut a piece of sheet galvy/aluminium to fit within the box, fixed with faceplate screws and skimmed over it could be used as the junction box

£1100 is on the pricier side but likely includes an expensive charger like the Zappi or hypervolt. You could get a much cheaper charger with the required pen fault protection installed for probably around the £7-800 mark

Yes there will be a solution, best wait to see what turns up and take it from there.

Yes, you're only supposed to be able to touch the cable sheath, not the actual core insulation. The new one you're ordering hopefully comes with a box because the actual screw terminals would be exposed otherwise, which is much more dangerous.

That's fair enough, you may decide to call one for peace of mind anyway. Your existing installation is actually a bit naughty, you shouldn't be able to touch any of the coloured wires without removing a protective cover

Left is input, right is output.

I think we already determined that the switch is on the input side - you said it kills the unit when off - so the only important thing is that you put the brown wire going into the input side on the old unit, to the live input side on the new unit (terminal 1).

Yes, make sure you put the lives in the same way as the old one - input to input and output to output. Also make sure you isolate the power at your circuit breaker before doing anything

@ericmark I think the new unit proposed wiring allows a switch to be used but overridden in the app and vice versa. Because their current setup doesn't appear to be wired that way though, the switch will just kill the power to the unit.

Nor is the water from the boiler used, and yet it has one. You could do that, that's a thermal store. How many tappings do you have on the cylinder though? You need flow and return to boiler, and the same for radiator. If you're not using the heating coil (and not using the top draw off pipe...