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Gotcha. Probably just a faulty socket then but it'd be worth flicking the power off to the garage and checking the connections in the socket.

When you say light, do you mean the red flag at the bottom? Normally the red flag isn't actually a light, it's just an indicator. It's possible the socket isn't getting power, do you have a garage circuit board or does the armoured cable come directly from the house CU?

Yes, input live to 1, output live to 3

Your head isn't doing much thinking at all if you're planning to do it without a header tank.

If the switch being off kills power to the unit, it is on the input side. If it turns the light off but you can still hear the unit clicking when you turn it on and off with the app, it's output side (probably preferable for a wifi unit). If I understand correctly you have a standard rocker...

While the above 2 comments are likely true, I'd be hesitant to do anything other than replace like for like without having (an electrician) look over the setup. Also, if the flag doesn't trip off that normally indicates that there's no power going to the socket

Does it remove the red flag when you press the red switch? With both switches on on the socket itself and the red flag showing, neither side works with a known working appliance?

Have you pressed the red button, then the blue? The blue button should bring on a red flag in the window beneath it indicating the socket should be working.

Without a cold water feed and header tank I'm pretty sure you'll airlock the system through evaporation.

Screwless faceplates can be a pain in the arse if your backboxes haven't been tightly cut out. They have a backplate behind them for the face to clip onto, which is invariably smaller than a standard socket faceplate - meaning it often won't bridge the cutout

The way I understand it, the boiler will modulate to maintain flow temp as well as possible but without a controller that tells it what flow temp to be, it'll always try to make whatever setpoint it's been set up for. The higher the temperature of your radiators, the higher the heat output - so...

You wouldn't (shouldn't) have plastered walls inside a shower

All wireless thermostats are wireless in the sense that you can move the thermostat around to wherever you want it to measure the temperature, but the receiver unit still needs wired into the boiler to tell it when to run. A Bosch specific thermostat is going to give the boiler ability to...

Yeah there's lots of different names, F&E always refers to the heating circuit tank though

No. The F&E tank is for your central heating circuit. The Cold water cistern is for your hot water cylinder. The cylinder/cold water cistern MUST have a vent pipe, the F&E tank often has a shared feed and expansion pipe which again is illegal to valve.

The pump head will be labelled on the pump or in the manufacturers documentation. The top pipe coming out of an open vented cylinder is a vent pipe which goes straight up over the cold feed tank and bends back to drop into the tank, this is to give somewhere for the hot water to expand and air...

This is open vented by the sounds of it! F&E tank level 1m above highest point in heating system (normally primary circuit return on cylinder, if you have any vertical rads bear this in mind). Tank level should also be pump head / 3 minimum higher than the circulation pump (e.g. 5m head 1.7m...

Run a cold tap and leave it running. Go around your other sinks and check the pipework, are any of them getting hot? Feel the shower valve as well, is it getting hot?

Isolate hot feed and inspect impeller, likely either damaged or melted off the driveshaft and not getting driven

Yes, that's your heating circuit pipes - flow and return. Additionally, a combi boiler needs a cold main feed and supplies the hot water main, so 2 extra pipes. Open or unvented, keeping the cylinder where it is will likely reduce install costs and provide better hot water performance.