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15mm copper? Are you taking up existing floor coverings anyway? If so just chase the floors unless you have concerns about hitting existing. A single piece of protected copper pipe is never going to leak, only potential is at the joints which you'd have to make at either end anyway.

If you just want the peace of mind it may be worth taking the salamander plumber up on his quote (with your specification of only the shower to be boosted). Whether or not they are the superior pumps, he will be sorting the pipework and tank in such a fashion that there shouldn't be any issues...

I don't, I've seen @Madrab mention them in a recent thread so I assume they're good in some circumstances. However, your current under bath pump is twin ended (hot and cold), so you would need a 2 of these inline pumps connected together. They're also centrifugal which typically don't cope...

And where is the current cylinder in respect to the showers, much closer? I take it he has an ideal place to tap into the existing hot water main? Yes, the same cylinder would lose less heat if it was placed inside the house (and the heat it loses would be somewhat useful). Whether it'd be more...

Where's the boiler with respect to the cylinder and the showers? You'll need a hot water pipe for a combi to existing trunk, if that's a long way away it could take an age for the hot to pull through

Read the instructions mate

Is that the boiler cable or the power cable.

I doubt it.

If it is indeed a RCD (people seem to use that to refer to any consumer unit switch) 80A just means it can handle 80 amps safely. Tails going through cavity walls is debatable, if it's straight through I wouldn't be concerned.

Run a new circuit or keep the gas hob.

Let's keep it civil.

Find out the voltage of your existing bulb, it'll likely be 12 or 24 VAC. Then you need to find a suitable replacement at the correct voltage (make sure it's VAC not VDC. If you can get cables between the downlights I'd recommend connecting 4 or 5 downlights to one transformer, the LEDS take...

Thanks for the detailed response, that's interesting. I remember hearing they didn't use a diverter valve but didn't put much thought into how that worked.

It can't call for heating and hot water

Might be a bit higher with laminate potentially Makes sense Pretty sure it's a combi

You might be right, I'm not totally clued up on how it talks to the boiler but surely in an ideal scenario the UFH could be running at say 40 in the autumn and 55 in the winter, or anywhere in between.

Unlikely, open up the kitchen light and take a picture of the wires in there - likely you're going to need in there anyway. Also, turn the power off if you're going to be messing about with the wires you dafty.

So you have 3 loops, not 3 separate "zones" although they could be changed to zones by fitting actuators to the manifold. However, it's likely better to leave them as manual and just tweak so that the whole house heats up evenly - this keeps it simple and reduces boiler cycling. The new hive...

I agree and just in case you weren't aware - you only need to turn one valve off to stop the flow through the radiator.

Seems very thorough honestly. I'd say you have 3 options. 1. Accept the quote and live with your taps being pumped, what are your reservations with this? 2. Ask the plumber to find a solution for just the bath and the shower, this will involve a new pipe being run from cylinder to bathroom...