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Looking a bit closer at the manifold photo - a daft question maybe - it appears that the primary return is connected to the bottom right of the manifold - is this connection open?

I agree with rogue trader. Purging the air with the manifold pump when open to the primary flow / return is a nonsense. The air will be moved round the system too quickly to get out of the air vent. The manifold needs isolating and each circuit needs purging independently with a water supply &...

Purging the air is relatively easy - there is a bleed point on each bar of the manifold. If you think air is trapped in the UFH pipework purge this circuit by circuit not all in one go. Weather comp can be an issue with UFH due to response time so using the supplied controls may also assist...

I agree with rogue trader - quite a good chance this is the issue. Interesting to see what Wunda advise though!

I notice you are in Yorkshire. If you are local to me (Doncaster) I may be able to call round and offer a solution. Please let us know how you get on with Wunda technical.

Removing the actuators and keeping check on the flow temperature manually would solve the issue of the stats & weather comp turning the heating off. The lack of response from the flow gauge usually indicates that the circuit is not open. Unfortunately I don't use wunda's equipment so I cant...

Expansion in doorways may not really be required; however we always fit them as we consider it a 'good practice'. It reduces potential cracking. There are standard up-stands to make fitting pretty easy.

Let me know your measurements & I will let you know what you need. The area you intend to heat may dictate the right kit for you to use.

Any merchant is likely to stock Polyplumb - make sure it is the UFH pipe though as they also sell ordinary plumbing pipe. B&Q also sell it. Most UFH pipe (including that which I sell) is 16mm OD which means that the 15mm fittings will not go on. Don't be tempted to use a push fit system use...

You should be ok with this arrangement - just make sure the circulating pump has enough head to circulate through the pipework, a long length of 10mm can have quite a lot of resistance. Also remember that the start of the pipework will be warmer than the finish so, depending on the length of...

There is no reason you cant do this - just don't put too much pipe in the floor running form the rad system or you risk damaging the floor as the temperature could be quite high. If you are just trying to keep the area 'aired' you should be ok.

The rest of your pipes in you CH system are likely to be copper so no overheat protection is required other than the limit the boiler is set to provide. Typically you circulate through a rad system in the region of 60 deg C which is why a rad system is usually rather hot! The Danfoss FHV-R...

If you pipe it with the thought that you may have to change it to a pumped arrangement in the future, other than the purchase of the FHV-R valve (make sure you get the temperature sensor), you can use all the rest of the equipment you install.

I've used the CM907 for years - easy to use & as has been said the batteries are for the display only and they last years! It even gives you notice that they soon need changing.

You cant fit a controller with this Danfoss valve unless you zone it complete independently with a zone valve. Just connecting to the existing rad heating without overheat protection could result in failure of the pipe. The Danfoss FHV-R has a built in temperature limiter so should do the job...

The Danfoss control you mention is only suitable for an area of no more than 10m2 and will only come on as part of the existing heating system therefore the timing is quite important. If you want individual control you will need to install a single port (depending on the area) manifold kit with...