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Isn't a humistat the best option?

Sorry but that is a bad idea: you want the support as rigid as possible before letting the load ac fully: any movement can lead to cracking.

Now you've given us a picture it's a safe bet it will be a resounding no if you apply. There is ample room to move the chamber: you just don't want to,

Had this exact situation a couple of years ago. 2 chambers in fact as separate foul & SW. This was a corner plot and there was room to slew the 2 sewers out from the house, around the back of the new extension which involved turning back towards the house at the front as there was a side...

Time for OP to redo the kitchen anyway.

No I mean something thin but solid so you can pull the bolts up tight. Your bolts are likely 100mm or so apart laterally so if you pack 1 side by 1mm you will see 30mm movement 3m along the beam

You've answered your own question: you need an SE. Check out Google obviously but a better bet might be a call to your friendly local building control If all else fails contact the Institution of Structural Engineers. You may be in trouble if you've affected the structure without freeholder...

Looks from the pics to be room to just bond a bit of plasterboard over the blocks?

Your SE is clearly showing a 1000 dig with 700 depth of concrete (and it would generally be inferred if not clearly stated that this is subject to on site confirmation by BC that the ground at this level is satisfactory). Depending on how old the house is you may well be deeper than its...

CAD is Computer Aided Drawing: do you mean a designer or architect who is doing the drawings for you? Pedantry aside, it really doesn't matter: many SEs just work off drawings. I always prefer to visit a job though I'm normally doing steels as a part of the design brief rather than as a stand...

You will need PP for the reasons I and others have explained. It would appear that your "architect" does not know his job! Alternatively it might be "ok they've failed that we'll apply for planning, extra cost ....." This post would be better in the building regs and planning section: probably...

Always best to fit all steels at the same time if you can to avoid this worry. You may need to add some shims between the plates if you have a misalignment. Unless you have a really bad fabricator and or installer of first beam you'll only need very thin sheet: maybe cut up a baked bean tin.

An awful lot of architects produce lovely drawings full of difficult/expensive details and have little idea of practical building.

Keying the walls together will give rigidity which may come back to bite you if there is any differential movement between new and old foundations. This is a real possibility given the modern insistence on ensuring the new bit doesn't move without considering what the original structure is...

Absolutely not. Far too many loft conversions have loads of unneccessary steel specified. As an extreme example I was asked to redesign a loft many years ago after 2 builders had refused to price it. The design had actually been approved by the LA though they are never going to say "that's too...

It will be Permitted Development provided: 1. It falls within the constraints listed on the Planning Portal 2. Your property hasn't had its PD rights removed.

You have doubled the span on that purlin by removing the central support. To get the same resistance to bending you need a beam that is 16 times stiffer so unless you are providing vertical support then it's a resounding no. If you have supported the purlin from below then you didn't need to put...

Is this a one off visit for your folks or can you use wheelchair access as a plus if you rent the place out (now or in the future) or if you want to encourage them to come again. Ideally you need something like a big Stannah type stair lift with a platform that sit flat on the path and be...

You won't get an LDC for the new bit as the whole of the addition to the original structure (unless pre 1946) is considered so it's PP or nothing. Approval of the existing bit doesn't actually come into the thinking. There is no realistic chance of your being told to pull it down so far down...

If it's a public sewer then you'll need Water Co's approval to join into the manhole. A backdrop is the usual approach to joining a shallow run to a deep sewer.