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2 skins with ties is quicker to build and easy to get both sides fair face but nowhere near as strong as a proper 1 brick bond.

Invest in a plugging chisel: you'd normally attack the mortar but your joints are so tight I think you'd be best off just sacrificing a brick or 2. Absolutely avoid the angle grinder indoors

Gang nail trusses are designed to work as a whole unit: you can't cut and shut like you can a traditional roof. You would need to employ an SE to provide a proper, safe design or adopt your independant floor approach.

Padstones are used to distribute point loads from beams or columns so that the pressure applied to the masonry beneath is less than its safe capacity. Where required they should be designed and specified by your SE along witjh the beams. A beam sitting on celcon blocks wpuld require a bigger...

( get the feeling that maybe BC felt they had to ask for something in the circumstances, but I don't see that arrangement doing a great deal. 12 mm bars set at an angle aren't going to do much in shear. No attempt to prep the existing concrete to get a bit unity between old and new. Decent...

What lengths can you buy it in? A 5.2m length of 5m width would seem pretty damn good to me.

Discharge to a ditch?

Have you looked at the government's explanatory booklet? If not see below: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/preventing-and-resolving-disputes-in-relation-to-party-walls/the-party-wall-etc-act-1996-explanatory-booklet What do your deeds say about ownership of the wall 4-6? This seems...

On a sloping site it's more likely they would have done a cut-to-fill exercise to level up the gardens so you have a bit of fill neighboiur has a bit of cut. I still maintain that the higher ground is the one that determines but as Big-all points out panel by panel.

In these planning situations the height is the highest part of the ground adjacent the structure so a building on a slope can be quite high and still comply. I'd suggest a fence would normally expect to follow the shape of the land so not quite the same, but measured on the high side. I wonder...

Jeez what a mess! If it's a straight disagreement between surveyors then you wind up having to pay for a 3rd to arbitrate, He can be agreed between the original pair or appointed by the RICS. I suggest the latter. I also suggest you read up on their procedure.

Is your PWS actually qualified?

Let the guy do the submission (you'll have to pay the fees either way). If you have paid him to produce BR drawings it is implicit that any revisions required by BC will be sorted by the architect. I have known architects have the brass b###s to request extra payment for their own errors!! Are...

The chuck and "normal" masonry bit will still be in the same drill so no difference, but many SDS drills have adjustable speeds so if you're worried just dial it down. I suspect a 6.5 will be fine as your core drill will bounce about and cut a reasonably wide groove. I would start with a...

I did building regs drawings many years ago for a friend-of-the client-architect's approved planning drawings. They were a joke but the planners didn't realise or didn't care and had passed them, so I'm faced with a 15deg roof pitch and plain tiles needing 35 deg to work. After a chat with BC...

It appears to me that certainly so far as the neighbour topside of you is concerned there is no need for a PWA as you are joining onto a wall which is solely your property and >3m from any walls of his. In that case you can just get on, you need no notice. I have had this kind of situation...

Properly built arches are immensely strong. Let well alone unless there are signs of distress

I very much doubt you'll cut rebar with a chisel though if it's mild steel you might do it. The best bet would obviously be to use a diamond core drill, but you've nothing to lose by trying with what you've got: you may get lucky and miss any bars. (One option might be to see if you can get...

Your question is unclear to say the least but a couple of points. A wall is truly a party wall if it's physically shared by 2 properties but the act (at least the bit that mainly affects domestics extensions) relates to any wall belonging in part or wholly to your neighbour which is within 3m...

As an engineer, option 1 is the obvious best approach if you're happy to lose the lose that bit of space. The beams which are clearly man enough for the job now are then at a reduced span. No analysis needed. Easiest for access. Perfectly DIYable if you're so minded. You will however need to...