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BRegs state that the fall on a waste pipe should be between 18-90mm/m, this is to stop the water going 2 slow and solids dropping out of the flow or 2 fast and then the flow can get too turbulent and create the same outcome of solids dropping out. Not as much of an issue when it comes to...

You can use the rubber adapters but it really comes down to location and experience IMHO I range boss adapter as - 3rd - rubber reducers - - largest amount of flexibility for alignment but can sometimes have too much movement - fine for vertical, not the best for external horizontal...

Part of the BS standards - BS 6891:2015 I would think that installation could be made to fit the standards relatively easily by a GSR engineer, depending on what's in the floor.

All I would say is that if it was me at a clients house and they mentioned that a waste pipe had been twisting under the floor by the plasterer moving the waste, 1st of all the plasterer's ears would have been burning ;) and (edit) then I wouldn't hesitate to get the multitool out and check...

Unless it's compression and the twisting has loosened the nut or the SW wasn't glued properly and the twisting has been enough to click it loose but it stayed in the fitting. :unsure: I've also seen older push fit seals leak once the seal was twisted and broken as they tend to stick to the pipe...

I have to say if the pipe has been manipulated and moved then there's always a chance that a seal or similar has been compromised. I'd test it with copious amounts of water down the waste and see if there's any issues that arise. The alternative is to quickly open it up and take a look. As...

Yep - exactly that - just to stop the end panels getting bent out of shape and act as a stand off piece for the brackets as it's a Type 11 and there's no back panel. As suggested, there's usually covers actually over the brackets to stop them getting flattened. They'll do the same job by the...

Something like that. Good pointer here - and these guys actually use grout but would be the same process with adhesive I would think Tile Backfill Repair

OK, definitely - don't leave it like that for long. If there's one thing to get right, it's the main power cabling from the fused connection. At no point should it be using incorrectly coloured wiring to feed the main power into the system, that's just asking for real problems in the future...

240v @ the neutral for the CH valve? Well, obviously there shouldn't be 240v on the neutral and that wouldn't usually be internal to the head, unless there's a short in there of course. Cant really tell from the photo but I'd be checking back at the wiring centre to start with but be careful...

Yup, when it's a non qualified individual doing gas work then it's an out and out criminal offence. Just unfortunate that it takes something that's unsafe and no doubt obvious, like a gas leak etc for these shysters to be found out.

Where are you locating the controller unit, same place as the current I guess? Where is that and how is the supply to the current hand shower wall outlet run? Depending on what the wall is constructed from would determine if you could then run a feed from the controller up inside the wall and...

Grout won't change the 'hollow' sound no - if the grout is to be cut out then I have seen tilers use a thin slurry of adhesive syringed/piped in at the back and that fills the void and left to set. Not sure if that would work with these though gravity would be your friend.

Normally only if the rads are cold at the top do the rads need bled. If the rads are cold in other areas around the bottom then that's usually something else. As suggested - bleed key and you'll find loads of step by step tutorials online. The rad vent is opened on the rad until only water...

What makes you think you need to bleed the rads?

Has this only started since the new pump went in? No - the boiler shouldn't be short cycling, with all 12 of the rads (average sizes?) calling for heat then that boiler should happily modulate down to around 7Kw. If it's short cycling then it means the boiler is reaching max set temp and...

Is it to be tiled? backfill that section with adhesive. Cut the tile as close to the pipe as possible and then use the correct tile drills to drill the tile to take a plug. just need to be sure you can miss the fitting. Fitting kit bracket screw holes look a bit tight too.

If you're happy testing 240V then if there is no power on the pink to the valve (that will be the live brown) then either the programmer isn't sending out a 240v Live call for heat or the stats receiver isn't passing that on to the valve. When the programmer is calling for CH then check for 240V...

As a rule of thumb, I run the drain hose to rise at least as high as the machine, it can then drop back down to the waste its to be connected to.

There's going to be a fair bit of groundwork required. An outside section where the services are currently located will need to be dug and the cold water mains and ducting moved and the waste picked up and then re-ducted and re-run to where required. Then the slab will need channelled and the...