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'Fraid not, that connects the opposite way to a bar shower. Your exposed shower feeds are tails that come through the wall, then a nut and olive is placed onto them (in essence a female connection) and then the valve's connections being male then fit onto the tails and connect up to the...

Oh dear - yes I would certainly call that a bit of a bodge. Not sure how they managed that though as that's a solvent weld elbow onto presumably a piece of ABS, that then should be too large to fit into a push fit coupler. Anyway, ideally you would get someone in to fit it properly to ensure...

'Fraid not - The waste pipe run itself would need to be vented, ideally upstream or very close to the trap. If the run was vented then that would probably mitigate self syphoning - i.e. the water from the shower filling the waste pipe and then creating a vacuum. You don't tend to get anti vac...

Oh yeah, the black vertical running up to under the trap connection, that the standpipe is connected too. After looking again now seeing that it doesn't go anywhere :ROFLMAO:

The whole point of the condi trap in the boiler is to stop that from happening, if that trap did go dry for some reason then worst case then yes POC's could travel down the condi pipe and enter the room. Though it does sound like someone trying to drum up some work. The other point about...

Where is the smell prevalent? Is it from the top of the standpipe? I'd agree with the others that it's unlikely that the standpipe's 75mm trap is being pulled dry by the sink but just to check. Cut a section out of a thin plastic bag and place that over the top of the standpipe and then fill...

yes - usually are IME.

Taking the regs into account then it would really be a double check valve, if the spout can reach down into the water in the sink and that water could contain cleaning/disinfecting agents (CAT3).

Nope - not come across anything that will remove water staining from silicone. If normal soap and water and a soft nail brush won't lift it then it's cut out and replace I'm afraid.

Totally agree @Johntheo5 - and one of the most common mistakes is the EV vessel either being left at it's factory pre-charge on install or re-filled to the level that's marked on the side without though to the actual system pressure. That can then sometimes create issues with...

As long as you can get the connector from the pump to the top of it then it should be able to be done in situ, I have a stirrup type pump that has a 3m hose on it for exactly that kind of thing. if not then it's a drain down and remove. Don't forget to balance out the pre-charge to the mains...

Nope - dead quick and easy to re-pressurise with the correct type of pump, though if it is a remote EV (not an in cylinder baffle type) then it should really be done at service time by a qualified Unvented chap.

Never take a chance, the nut should happily screw onto the fitting to at least 1/2 of the thread depth. If the rubber seal doesn't fit into the nut when the it's on the end of the flexi then get a little silicone grease or soap and coat the rubber seal and spigot end and then put it all back...

As per the 2010 revised regs - all new builds or new baths in existing should have TMV2 mixing valves fitted to baths, regardless of tap types.

If the water coming out of the boiler is as hot as it should be and at least one outlet is getting that temp of hot water and there is no cold feed to the shower then there's no way for the water exiting the shower to be cooled down. Therefore there has to be a cold water crossflow and it's...

That compression end of the trap should be a universal 40mm. How are you trying to fit it? Take plastic nut off the fitting and then the washer and black rubber fluted seal. Put the nut on the spigot end of the flexi, then the plastic washer and then the black seal, with the fluted end...

If the cylinder stat is set to 60deg and the system temp is > 60deg then depending on the travel distance to the tap and the insulation of the HW pipework, then HW should reach 60deg in the cylinder and then arriving at the tap @ ~55deg, would be spot on. If there are no blending (TMV) valves...

Is the kitchen sink a mixer? Basin separate taps? It's possible there is cold water crossflow happening as the shower hot feed is no longer balanced. I would suspect that re-instating the cold feed to the shower may sort it out.

I always try to get as close to ~ 40-45mm/m (1:25) as possible as I've found that's the sweet spot for a self cleaning run. They state 18mm is the min but that would have be written with 6/9L flushes in mind I would think. Not sure if they've ever revisited that figure TBH I would always work...

Can I suggest that you really try to avoid using a flexi pipe on a shower waste. They are know to cause all sorts of problems further down the line with sagging and restrictions.