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The spring loaded version accomodates slopes and allows it to cope with a rise of surface.

Other wheeled versions are available that are more suited to those surfaces... https://www.amazon.co.uk/heavy-duty-gate-wheel/s?k=heavy+duty+gate+wheel

I think you would be better digging deeper holes and a general rule i use is 1/3rd below ground and 2/3rd's above. That would mean using 2.7m posts if you have 1.8m panels but it is only a guide and you could dig down to 600mm and pack with bricks and more postmix or concrete to make it more stable.

You would ideally just continue the slates in line with the neighbours assuming the lats are there and if not it is easy enough to re-lat it through your side keeping the spacings between lats the same.

A simple Jockey wheel will solve it like the type below...

Sprinkle salt or slug pellets and it will keep them at bay but ultimately you need to fill any gaps which is often easier said than done.

Chocolate or Peanut butter is good or combine the two and go Nuttella, to save a fortune i would go for the cheaper version of any hazlenut spread.

Quite possible that you are right with the speed of water down the valley theory and would be worth fixing in an upstand, even just temporary, to check the result next time you get heavy rain. You could use lead if you have some or even just strips of plywood to see if it helps. I would also...

Or ladders.

Looks like whoever lived there did the loft conversion but for some unknown reason decided to leave out the staircase and the entire floor. Very strange but maybe they just wanted the height of a vaulted room which is fair enough. Assuming you have loadbearing walls then adding joists and a...

I would say tile adhesive would do it but there are better options.

Do you mean an actual external/outside wall or an internal/external wall ? Some tile adhesives do work outside but it should tell you on the tub or packet or you could use a cartridge adhesive like CT1 or Stixall.

Found this for you .... "The length of the hooks should be no less than 10mm longer than the minimum head lap required." So 100mmm would be adequate for you. This also gives a fair guide to installation and suggests a minimum of 5mm longer than headlap...

Yes, any good plasterer will manage that.

Use adhesive with a mastic gun onto the studwork and then caulk and paint after.

All pretty much the same to be honest, i would remove any of the loose thicker plaster near the timber too once you break off the blown section.

The timber was fitted to create a fixing point for the window as the house possibly had box sash windows originally hence the deep reveals. I would build out the timber to sit flush with the face of the brickwork and then use expanding foam, applied steadily so as not to bulge the pvc reveal...

Try turning the spout so it runs with the tiles rather than at them and you may notice some improvement and if not then replace the spout with a bend, again turned 90 degrees and add a short length of pipe to let water exit past the problem area. btw what is going on with that pointing ??

You don't say whether it is a hip or lean to type roof but if it is a hip could you do a Dragon Brace ?...... https://timberframehq.com/dragon-brace-assembly/ or if it's a lean to construction the top wall plate will be resin bolted to the wall so birdsmouth the rafters over it, fix as normal...

If it is a raised deck then use a sprayer with a long lance.