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Friend of mine, called Willy which is not his real name but he was the only boy in a family of 8 kids.

1) You would be able to slip the piece you need in behind the pipe and either screw/nail it if you can or use a good glue/adhesive and it will be fine for the rubber roof to cover over. 2) trimmers will work fine here and more than adequate in your situation. I would use 18mm OSB and space your...

Here's one to get your teeth into....

Yes that can be done and based on the fact it is a narrow roof with minimum weight just double up the rafters both sides and the head trimmer in front of the pipe.

I would take the pipes out of the equation and elbow them as soon as you can after exiting the house and run them to the stack above your proposed wall plate. You then only have the main soil pipe to get around and you can fit wall plate to within an inch of it and the rafters can then be spaced...

This is a good site for wallplate detail although the trusses design may dictate where it needs to be placed. https://www.housebuild.com/construction/building-guidelines/roof-level/trusses

You are ok to remove anything above the floor level as the structural fixings holding the staircase will be into the floor joists.

Depends what you want to spend really but any blade with more teeth is always better in my experience and here are a few examples at different prices. https://www.toolstation.com/ox-tct-wood-cutting-circular-saw-blade/p70416 https://www.toolstation.com/freud-cordless-circular-saw-blade/p11300...

Most sealants can be easily smoothed and sealed with a wet finger or similar so using a bit of a soapy water mix, either sprayed on lightly or via a finger or spatula/smoothing tool, will do the job.

There is just so much wrong with that set up... 1) the right hand rafter has been cut short, so what is supporting it ? 2) it should be a double rafter, might want to check if it is. (same other side too) 3) what exactly is going on with the "membrane" they have used ? it looks like kitchen roll...

There are several ways of doing flat roof garages and all depends on budget, skill level, intended use etc.... I would have a look on youtube as there are loads of examples on there on how to do what you need.

Bit patchy, pun intended. Hope you haven't paid for that ?

Either way would work well and it is either that or bonding gutter but if you can avoid that then the result always looks better.

Try taking the long faceplate off the side of the door and there should be another screw which releases the barrel.

May have been a standing point for ladder access to comply with Fire Regs to be able to be reached from a ladder which i believe is a 1 metre distance from the eaves. Very odd whatever the reason.

They do look like Thermalite type blocks and yes that would work well. They can be cut with an average handsaw too if you need more depth but use an old one or buy a cheap one as it would be no good for timber afterwards.

The wording below is what i have found on the internet for you... "If the improvement indicator is 'yes', it means that the council VOA are aware that the current owners have carried out some fairly major improvements to the property (e.g. added an extension, converted the garage into living...

Go for it as i cannot see you would have any issues.

You can buy kerb edging or if you get slabs cut them to 3 or 4 inch wide strips to fit under the 2 X 2 timber supports and lay a strip of DPC on top of them so you won't get moisture soaking up into the timbers and you will be good for many years ahead.

Sounds like a lot of money and when you consider they look like they have allowed for it to be done in a day judging by the ULEZ, Congestion charges, parking & travel costs at a mere £140 then that's around £1,000 an hour ex VAT. Get some more quotes.