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Are there slim fascia’s I can use for the 3inch roof rafters?

Effectively, tarpaulin always needs to Cover the OsB board. Whether roof or floor. I then just need to pick a decent day for the rubber roof. Would treated timber studs swell too?

Is this a good idea guys? I am quite busy over the summer season and wondering if I can do this project over the winter. I will need to build this over weeks/months and wondering whether parts of it will get damaged whilst out in the rain. I can purchase treated timber for the stud walls but...

Sorry, it’s not quite 3 inches. I’m considering these for the stud walls https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Studwork-CLS-Timber---38-x-63-x-2400mm/p/107177

Would 3x2 stud work be strong enough for 4x2 rafters with a rubber roof? The shed will be 2.5m x 2.5m and the 3x2s are considerably cheaper when ordered from the DIY sheds. Please let me know your thoughts.

I think I’m good in that case. Thanks guys.

Sure. I was wondering if I haven’t monitored it for long enough and it will start seeping in a few hours - as an example. My concern is that it’s not fully tight but may be that’s not necessary?

I replaced one of these and applied 15 wraps of PTFE tape. When I tighten this, I could go another half turn but that will mean the tap is pointing sideways! Is the current level of tightened good enough and will it drip over time? Seems to be okay at the moment.

Is a compression coupler a suitable option too? I feel like the hep20 fitting is way too bulky.

How do you hold in place when the pipe is vertical?

I have a 22mm mains water pipe with a small pin hole. I cut it on the pin hole and tried using a 22mm hep 2O coupler but there’s hardly any play in the pipe. Of course, I didn’t know that until I had cut the pipe… How do you guys approach this?

I've not tried on hardwood but it sinks it nicely into skirting in architrave. The setting allows you to vary the depth. I've had it set to just below the surface and its worked every time. Requires a tiny but of filler afterwards.

I used it extensively for skirting and architrave. It was magical. Made the job so much easier and the pins always went in to a perfect depth. Bit of filler and the jobs a goodun. I was using the makita adapter and battery and it lasted a very very long time with a 5amp battery. Very happy with...

Is the nut on the rad one of those that has a rubber seal or something and doesn’t need to be too tight? With the other one that is using the plastic pipe, is it the insert you are referring to?

One of these joints is leaking. Not quite figured out which one. It caused the combo boiler pressure to drop. Do they need undoing and then tightening up or is it safe to tighten them up whilst we are at full pressure? Feels a bit odd writing that but please excuse my ignorance.

I want to do a good deed but don’t want it to go horribly wrong. I was hoping to get some advice from you guys please. Background - I’ve installed a Texecom Premier Elite system in my house. This has the following: PIR sensors, 2 keypads, internal sounders, external strobe, magnetic door...

I have an impact driver and will use that. Thanks

I have one of these and wanted to check if I can use it for an upcoming shed build and specifically, timber walls and joists etc. I was plannng to use 4x2 timbers. Thanks in advance.

When fitting isolation valves under a sink or cistern, do I have to use those screw operated valves or can I use machine valves with the plastic levers? Thought they would be easier to use.

I did a DIY garage conversion around 10 years ago and I took this approach: Battened the wall with 38x63 timbers, filled the bits in between the timbers with loft insulation and then plasterboarded over the top. The walls are single leaf of brick. We use an electric heater in here and it's been...