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You guys know your stuff - well done. It works!!

Ahh OK... so, the blue neutrals should skip the light switch and use a connector block to take the connection from the lights to the breaker box?

Yes, both a pop and spark. It came from the light switch on the left... (the one with lots of wires in). I've uploaded an image

The below image shows the left hand light switch. The image below shows the right hand light switch The image below shows the fuse breakerbox as this is being powered from a plug socket

An update - i've connected everything and turned the power back on. When I went upstairs to check, both lights were on. When I clicked the light switch, there was a pop and spark and now it will no longer function. Any ideas?

And that'll work, simple as that? Just to add some faff to this, the light fittings state "do not earth as already double insulated". What do I do with the earth cable? Just cut it off tightly within the grey cable casing and only use live and neutral?

The switches either side of the bed need to control both lights as one, not independently of one another if that makes sense.

So does my diagram look right do you think? I just need special cable to link the switches?

I'm not sure if this looks more complicated because it's 2 gang 2 way switches

Ive built a stud wall where my bed will be placed (see attached image). The power sockets can be seen to the left and right of where the bed will be. These are both connected and working. I'm wanting to place 2 wall lights above the bed, so you can also see a light switch either side of the...

I moved into a house where the heating system used microbore pipes. The radiators were tiny, and I suspect the job was done by the previous owner as a DIY job. The house does not heat properly. I have bought larger radiators and spoke to a few plumbers - but nobody seems to want to job. 1 chap...

So 50mm board is about the same as 100mm wool?

Is there a table somewhere to show how foil backed board compares to rockwool? I have 50mm thick foil backed board on my wall, but 200mm thick rockwool under my floorboards. From a warmth perspective, how do the 2 compare? Example: 50mm board is the equivalent of 300mm rockwool etc. (I've...

The brick supports oddly enough are the same in all rooms. It seems the house was built this way The lead water supply is old. The new supply runs alongside if from the tap.

The hallway subfloor seems to get damp, especially if it's been raining heavily outside. Do you think it would be a sensible solution to apply slurry to this floor, and the walls below the floorboard level to prevent this? I don't want to make a mistake before putting the floorboards back down...

I feel like I'm clutching at straws to be honest. I've added an extra air brick under the floor, but this does not seem to have done anything. I guess vinegar is the next step

I can only then the smell is in the wood. The picture was of the before problem. I thought adding a picture might prompt people to reply.

Water supply into the house was under there. It had a pin hole leak that had been spraying up at the boards for... well... a long time I guess. Just to add more to the riddle, it's the room next to this that smells. I have taken the floor up and there is nothing going on. Concrete foundations...

I moved into a house that had a hidden leak. I stopped the leak and replaced the affected floor joists and boards. Months later the smell remains, but there are no visible signs of concern. Is this normal? Do I need to treat surrounding wood to prevent smell? What's going on?

There was a hidden leak under my suspended timber floor. The timbers developed wet rot and the surrounding space became mouldy. The area has now been replaced with fresh timber joists, and the leak has been fixed. I'm concerned that mould could occur again. What is the best wood treatment to...