Tolerant in what way? If it was oversized for the required output it would still heat the rads up until your room thermostat indicated the necessary temp had been reached and then switch off, possibly do the job faster and work less efficiently (but was only 75% in the first place)
Not sure what the bucket test consists of but if I was trying to clear an high level air lock I would be trying to push water through the system as fast/forceful as possible. To this end I would disconnect the radiator and if possible run a discharge hosepipe from each of the valves to some...
Yes, go bigger and let the TRV do the controlling, main thing is confirm your boiler out put capable of providing necessary btus and everything else falls into place ( after you have balanced the radiators)
That's not even the length of a brick so it's not going to distribute any load more than resting it directly on the brickwork ( of course it could be there just make up a level to rest the beam on but at 5.2 that's a fairish size
Well it will be detrimental to the calc so best play safe and assume it is a solid wall or you could do calc for both types of wall and take a middish value depending on how much of the gap is filled with debris
Since it breaks the continuity of the brickwork (assuming no snots or headers) and hence stops heat conducting directly across the wall from the inside to the outside I would consider it to be an air gap and apply a standard 0.18 R value
My 75 year old mate who I go drinking with has a shaved head I had better tell him he's a skinhead, I'll put my old motor bike boots on next time I see him and be a rocker.
But if tiles are 330mm and if min head lap is 75mm them max length of tile showing without one above it showing through is 255 or at max head lap of 120mm max length is 210mm or have I misunderstood what you are stating
Game set set and and match to me me I think
PS definition of sweetie OED - a very pleasant or kind person and what is a dont
I'd best go and make some ash (that will be totally lost on you and most folk to be fair unless they're from up north)
Still cannot find those 2 words together, please help
Nice of you to say so sweetie
And I thought it was one used when they erected a bit of scaffolding and bunting to warn of over head cables
Thats why you use it a lot I assume?
Drank with the wrong people sweetie; stick to California...
lost me there, please explain in detail
Guilty as charged, profound apologies
No change (have you a you have a thing about playing fields and goalposts) spragging is spragging as any northern builder will know without asking Google, please visit the Oxford Dictionary
Suggest you re visit google and try and get normal definition of sprag
I thought I said that what the spragged plank is for
Not if you support rafters (thus reducing effective span and hence bending moments and hence timber stresses) with secondary purlin spragged off underlying supports. But...
Well structurally by not supporting the new rafters with the purlin basically means, everything being equal, the bending moment and hence stresses in the wood are 4 times greater than they originally were and no doubt the deflection is somewhat greater. Having said that there are several safety...
It is quite possible that when all the forces are taken into account the said beam is structurally sound but unless the main contractor can produce the necessary calcs to confirm this you are at risk of a catastrophic failure